April 28, 2004 Ask the Chef Article

April 28, 2004 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q). Dear John, never visited one of your restaurants, never watched your TV show, but your Herald column is superb. We have a question regarding the recipe in your April 15th column. I've talked with friends about Norwegian pancakes and they are starting to line up to try them out. However, there is a question about the amount of butter called for (one-half pound?). No wonder they are rated the best! Is the amount correct or might it call for 1/2 cup of butter? Help! Thanks, Herb Via e-mail

A). That's right Herb, I said 1/2 lb. This recipe makes 70 to 80 small pancakes - and you don't have to slather butter on each cake. And don't forget the special syrup

recipe - 1/2 cup of heavy cream and 1/2 cup of brown sugar - it makes a great sauce. Shame on you for not visiting one of my places. How about local's day on the Wharf? Free parking and almost free food on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, all day. Do yourself a favor and support your local businesses.

Q). Just got back from Sicily and, having fallen in love with their food, have two questions: Where can I get caciocavallo (or its alternative) and the steel tubes on which to cook cannoli shells? Thanks a million! Patricia Paul, Carmel Via e-mail

A). These two items are available all over the place. Carmel Cheese Shop in Carmel can order caciocavallo for you (625-2272). Call Danny at

Monterey Bay Restaurant Equipment about the cannoli tubes (899-1422), he will ship them to you. Did you know that caciocavallo means "cheese on horseback" and it dates back to the 14th century? It probably was made from mare's milk. Today it is made from cow's milk. For those of you that don't know this cheese, it is eaten at 2 months old when it's mild and nutty. When it ages it becomes pungent and granular making it suitable for grating, like provolone and mozzarella. It is stretched and shaped by hand and is available either smoked or plain. Hey, wasn't Mrs. Caciocavallo the name of the main character in the Rose Tattoo in the 50's (Anna Magnani and Burt Lancaster)? Has a nice ring to it!

Q). John I was reading about your Pisto ham in your column. Could you give me some details about it? Is the ham already cooked? (One person talked about "following directions pretty much"). What size is it? (We have an upcoming function with six couples). How do we order? And what is the cost? Thanks much for any info. (We went with you on the Royal Cruise in the Mediterranean a few years ago, great trip!

Dave Mackie
Via e-mail

A). Check the last few articles on the web site. All the info is there. Carmel Meat Co. is selling them (883-3555). These babies are a big 24-26lbs. that's the secret - Sandwiches, ham and eggs, just sliced with a salad and tomatoes, etc. Plus the bone for soup - How can you go wrong?

Readers: My pickled shallots are ready to eat. Last Tuesday evening while speaking to the Mayor and City Council about Local's Day, the Mayor piped - up, "John did you really put up fresh shallots in vinegar?" "Why, yes Mayor and I

just started to eat them" (4 to 6 weeks curing time). As I was about to go on, I realized that his question should be an "Ask the Chef" question. So here we are, let me tell you they are delicious, crispy and sweet. Mr. Mayor, check out your back door. I gave you 1 gallon worth. Don't forget to use the vinegar for salad dressing. The Mayor was my coach in the 50's and we are neighbors. Tell me coach you were how old when I was in high school? - How about sharing your secrets and your fountain of youth. Enjoy the shallots!

Q). Hi John, in some restaurants (not good ol' pizza joints), I have eaten pizza where the crust is not bread-like but with a texture that is somewhat chewy and separated with air pockets. I have attempted to re-create the same by using various pizza dough recipes, but none have done it. Can you advise?
Bill Koll, Carmel Valley
Via e-mail

A). You are talking about pizza dough that takes at least 12 hours to develop. Recently I experimented with three dough recipes. The first was ready in 1 hour. The next was 3 hours and the last took 12 hours to two days. Although all were very good, I liked the chewy, holey one the best.

Here's the Pizza Dough recipe:
1 pkg. yeast (2 1/4 tsp.)
1 cup ice water
1 cup 110 degree water
1 tbsp. Sugar
1 tbsp. Salt
2 tbsp. Olive oil
5 1/4 to 5 1/2 cups of bread flour

1. Mix warm water and yeast - 5 minutes. 2. Mix ice water sugar, salt and then oil. 3. Put flour in bowl add yeast mix to blend then add the cold water mixture 14 to 16 minutes. If dough is sticky add 2 tablespoons more flour. Cut dough in half, pound out and place in a plastic bag. Chill for at least 12 hours to 2 days. To make pizza, let your dough come up to room temperature (30 minutes to 1 hour). Remove from bag and roll out. Put your sauce on the stove and let the dough sit outside for 3 hours to proof. Just before baking put all other toppings on and bake at 500 degrees.

Readers: Saturday night we had (you guessed it) Monterey Bay Salmon and a jam session. Johnny Rivers busted out his ukulele, while Dr. Dave tickled the ivories - Wow what a night! - Johnny's newest album "Reinvention Highway" is coming out soon and it's terrific. Check out johnnyrivers.com for appearances and info on the album.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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