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May 14, 2003          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Dear John:   I've been fishing and eating shark for years and think they're the best eating fish around. One thing you have to do is to bleed them (like a pig). I tie a rope around their tail, cut the gills and vent and hang them over the side of the boat until all the blood is pumped out. The blood is what has the uric acid and is terrible tasting.   Gene Boggiatto, Castroville

A:  Well folks next time you catch a shark here's the secret. I think I'll try this myself. Thanks Geno!

Q:   Hi, I can't seem to find a recipe for Portuguese tarts. Could you help?   Penny, e-mail

A:   Folks, Penny is talking about bite-sized tarts sold by street vendors in Sintra, a castle town fifteen miles west of Lisbon. They are traditionally made with "queijo fresco" a smooth white sheep's milk unavailable here. The following recipe uses fresh mozzarella instead and looks pretty good. Hope this works for you.

Portuguese Cheese Tarts Recipe or "Queijadas de Sintra"
Makes about 3 1/2 dozen tarts

Pastry:
2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp salt
2 Tbsp lard (hog lard, not vegetable shortening)
1/2 to 2/3 cup ice water

Cheese filling:
1/4-pound fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (at room temperature)
4 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into pats
1 3/4 cups sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
4 large egg yolks
1/2 cup un-sifted all-purpose flour

For the pastry: Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl; then, with a pastry blender, cut in the lard until the texture of fine meal. Forking briskly, drizzle just enough ice water over the mixture to make it hold together. Shape into a ball, wrap in wax paper, and refrigerate several hours. Meanwhile, prepare the filling: In a food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade (or in a blender or electric mixer set at highest speed), buzz the  mozzarella, butter, sugar, and cinnamon about 60 seconds nonstop until smooth and creamy;
scrape down the work bowl sides with a rubber spatula and beat 60 seconds longer. Note: It will take longer for the electric mixer to reduce the mixture to creaminess - perhaps 3 to 4 minutes of steady beating. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition; add the flour and snap the motor on once or twice to blend in. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl, cover and chill several hours. When ready to bake the queijadas, preheat the oven to hot (400 degrees). Divide the pastry in half and roll, first one half, then the other, as thin as paper on a lightly floured pastry cloth with a lightly floured, stockinette-covered rolling pin. Cut into rounds with a 3 1/2 -inch cutter. Also re-roll and cut the scraps. Fit the pastry into plain or fluted tart tins measuring 2 1/2 inches across the top. Set the tins on baking sheets, then half-fill each tart shell with the cheese mixture. Bake uncovered for 18 to 20 minutes, just until the filling is puffy and a rich amber-brown. Remove the tarts from the oven, cool until easy to handle; then using a small pointed knife, gently pry the tarts from the tins. Serve at room temperature.

 

Warning: "Death Cap" mushrooms are still around; in fact I got some monsters popping up in my yard. They are the biggest I have ever seen!

Q:   What's the difference between Prime and Kobe beef?
Rich, Seaside, Phoned-in

A:   Richard, Let's first talk about USDA Prime. Out of approximately 500,000 steers that are processed in a week, only 1 to 2% are graded as USDA Prime. To have that grading, the meat must have an exceptional amount of marbling (that is to say fat distributed throughout the meat). Fat is what makes the meat tender and makes it taste very, very good. A prime steak will be juicy, tender and have great flavor. Of course cooking it properly is extremely important. Available usually in only the finest restaurants and specialty markets it's very special. Kobe (American Kobe is what we use) also grades as Prime but comes only from Wagyu cattle. The word Wagyu refers to all Japanese beef cattle
('Wa' means Japanese or Japanese-style and 'gyu' means cattle). This beef is even more scarce than Prime and I am experimenting with several cuts at this time. Eat the best, folks, you deserve it.

Readers:   I just found out that Martin & Weyrich Chardonnay from 2001 Huer Hueno Vineyards, finished in the top 10% out of 122 wines at the annual Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition in Seattle. You can't just drink any white wine with oysters, folks. Here are some of the qualities the judges look for in finding the perfect white wine: dry as a bone, crisp, clean (avoid big buttery, oakey chardonnays), lean, austere, steely, flinty, brisk, cold and clean. Acidity and chalkiness make you want to eat more oysters. Taylor Shellfish Farms sponsors this competition every year. They will even ship you oysters so that you can have an oyster tasting at your own home. For a list of wines and product information check out: www.taylorshellfish.com.

Readers:   An old friend David Lee dropped by the office with some sun dried tomatoes. He is a grower from China and this year expects to harvest 500 tons of dried tomatoes, Minga! That's a lot of tomatoes. He wholesales his products all over the world and says a lot of people don't know how to use them, so here is what you are supposed to do with them. Place dried tomatoes in a small pot and cover with water. Taste for salt, add a pinch of sugar and 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, slowly bringing to high simmer. Keep checking tomatoes until nice and plump. Do not over cook - they will get too mushy. Let cool, press out 70% of the water and put down a layer in a flat dish. Sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil, crushed red pepper, dried oregano and chopped garlic. Watch out, use in sandwiches, chopped in pasta salad, or by themselves as an antipasto.

 

Q:   Now that salmon season is here, I would like to know how to make and use lemon dill sauce. My cookbooks show nothing and none of my friends can help. Thanks for your help.    Alan

A:   I think what your talking about is really a dill sauce flavored with lemon juice. Which is to say a cream sauce or a fish veloute with lemon juice and garnished with chopped dill or mixed into the sauce. Fish Veloute Recipe
Equal amounts of butter and flour to make a roux, cook 10 minutes on low to cook out flour taste. Add hot milk or cream using a whip. Let it come slowly to a boil.
Add enough liquid to make a nice sauce; not too thick and not too thin. Then add salt & white pepper, a bit of dry sherry, a pinch of Cayenne pepper and a pinch of nutmeg - keep whipping Alan. Now start adding some lemon juice, a bit at a time (not too much) to make it slightly tart, then add lots of chopped dill and serve with plain fried or poached salmon steaks. Some stewed cucumbers would also be nice. A simpler option would be a nice tartar sauce. Add curry powder and a good shot of lemon and it's fabulous with salmon, barbecued, just plain fried or poached.

Readers:  I attended a wedding this past weekend and once again was treated to the angelic voice of our own local opera singer Orazio of Palermo Bakery. I've said it before - you should hear this man sing - he will bring tears to your eyes. Bravo Orazio!

 

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