May 7, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

May 7, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Dear Chef Pisto:

Several columns ago someone wrote in and asked for a seafoam candy recipe. This one is very old; it was my mother’s. Please feel free to share it with anyone who might like it. Really enjoy your column. June K.R., Salinas

A: How about this folks. What a nice lady, way to go June!

Seafoam Candy Recipe

3 1/2 cups light brown sugar (packed)

1 tblsp. vinegar

1 tsp. vanilla

1/8 tsp. salt

1 cup water

2 egg whites beaten

Combine sugar, water, salt and vinegar in a heavy 3 quart saucepan. Cook, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Continue cooking without stirring, until small amount of mixture forms a firm ball when dropped in cold water (248 degrees F with a candy thermometer). Beat egg whites until stiff, but not dry.

Pour about half the syrup slowly over egg whites, beating constantly. Do not scrape the sides of the pan. Cook remainder until small amount forms hard threads in cold water (272 degrees F). Add slowly to first mixture, beat until mixture holds its shape or loses its gloss. Add vanilla, then drop by spoonfuls onto waxed paper, or spread in buttered 9x9x2 inch pan. When firm, cut into squares and dip in chocolate (optional). Makes about 1 1/2 pounds.

Q: Dear John,

My 13 year old grandson caught a four foot shark at Moss Landing. My daughter cooked some with lemon juice, butter and garlic. No one like it. They all said it tasted medicinal. Please advise how to handle shark, as I am sure there must be a better way. Also, what is the medicinal taste coming from? Please let me know soon, as they have given me the rest of it to see if I can do something with it. Read your articles in the Herald and enjoy them very much. Sometimes

catch your TV show. Also, fun to watch.

Doreen, e-mail, Monterey

A: Shark is kind of a pain. I’m not sure what kind of shark he caught, but shark must be butchered as soon as possible because the meat is highly perishable. Shark contains a chemical compound commonly found in the body (especially in the urine) called urea. Urea becomes ammonia through enzymatic action. So the basic principle of shark cookery is first to leach out the ammonia by soaking the filets in a brine solution (2 lb. salt to 5 gallons of water). You can also use vinegar, lemon juice, or milk to neutralize the ammonia. Ok Doreen, you still with me? A few hours of soaking is usually okay if you cut it into small pieces. Larger filets will take maybe 8 hours or more. Tell your grandson to let the rest go and give you a break. Tell your family to take you to local’s night on the wharf and leave the cooking to us.

Q: A few months ago, you and another gentleman were making a roux for seafood gumbo. You made it look so easy and I would really appreciate it if I could get the recipe.

Thank you. Dee Dee, Via e-mail

A: Dee Dee, a roux is nothing more than a thickener. It’s a combination of 50% flour and 50% vegetable oil or, better yet, lard. Butter can also be used, but for gumbo, you need lard. Begin by melting say one cup of lard on medium heat for one minute. Add one cup of flour and start stirring - don’t let it burn! If it gets too hot turn down the heat - if it burns, throw it out and start over. There are three degrees of roux depending on how long you cook it. Blond (cooked the least), light brown and dark or “mahogany.” Use the mahogany for gumbo. This darkest roux will take about 25 minutes. There are many recipes for gumbo. Last year, while in

Louisiana, we tasted an authentic gumbo make by some Cajun folks on the banks of the Ol’ Mississippi. It sure wasn’t the rich, thick soup we are used to here. Here is my recipe: that rich, thick style gumbo that I like.

Seafood Gumbo Recipe

1 pound ground up andouille sausage (or kielbasa)

1 pound shelled raw shrimp (prawns - 16/20 size)

2 pounds chicken, cut into small pieces

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 head of celery, chopped

4 medium bell peppers, chopped

6 cloves garlic, chopped

2 bay leaves

1/3 jar of Sensational Seasoning® or Cajun seasoning

3 quarts of chicken stock or homemade crab stock

salt & pepper to taste

mahogany roux

Brown chicken and remove. Sautee onions, celery, garlic and bell peppers in a bit of lard until lightly brown. Add sausage and cook for a few minutes. Add some stock - 1 1/2 quarts, more or less. Now add salt, pepper, bay leaves, Sensational Seasoning® and chicken and cook until chicken is well cooked - 20 to 30 minutes. Add shrimp and cook another 6 or 7 minutes. Finally, start adding the roux, a little at a time and it will start to thicken the up. If you want to thin it, just add more stock. It should be the consistency of a thin cream soup. Have ready some plain boiled long-grain rice. Put some rice in a bowl, top with gumbo, sprinkle on some sassafras and chopped green onions and have some hot sauce handy. Now put on the Cajun music and watch out! All you need then is a mess of crawdads, some fried alligator, watermelon, cold beer and sodas for the kids - Hi-de-hi-de-ho!

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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