March 19, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

March 19, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Dear John, Your shows are really great and I look forward to your weekly articles in the Herald on Wednesdays. I was particularly interested in your comment on Robert Vander Woude’s perfectly executed spinach soufflé for 10 people; but was disappointed at not finding a recipe (his or yours) following. John & Susan, Monterey, Via e-mail

A: Bobby V. is turning into a pretty good cook and he’s not afraid to try new things. It’s all about the adventures of cooking and eating folks, and of course sharing it with your friends. In a restaurant or at home, please just enjoy yourselves. Here’s Bobby V’s great recipe:

P.S. If it doesn’t puff up, save it and make a sandwich out of it with a little mustard.

Hey Johnny boy, here’s my recipe:

Serves 6-8 (I doubled the original recipe and had extra)

^{Spinach
Soufffle Recipe}^:

5 T butter

1/4 Cups all-purpose flour

1 Cup milk

3 T heavy cream

5 eggs (separated)

1 1/4 lb. Spinach

2 Shallots, diced

1 clove Garlic, diced

4 t. Butter

4 oz. garlic chives, coarsely chopped

Salt, freshly ground white pepper, butter and bread crumbs for the ramekin dishes (one dish per person).

Cream of tartar for egg whites.

Make a Béchamel Sauce:

Melt the 5T butter and stir in the flour. Cook, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. Gradually stir in the milk and simmer the sauce for 15 minutes. Add the cream and bring to a boil. Cool slightly and stir in the beaten egg yolks, a little at a time. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and cool. To keep from developing a film on top, place Saran wrap directly on top of the liquid mixture.

Preparing the soufflé mixture:

Rinse and blanch the spinach. Wrap the blanched spinach in a dishcloth or piece of heavy cheesecloth and wring out thoroughly with your hands. Finely chop the spinach. Sauté the diced shallots and garlic with the spinach in melted butter. Place in a large

bowl and stir in the béchamel sauce and garlic chives. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks (add salt and cream of tartar). Fold egg whites into the soufflé base with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula.

Baking the soufflé:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease ramekin dishes (approx. 4' in diameter) with butter and coat with breadcrumbs. Fill the dishes to about 1/8 inch below the top with the spinach
mixture. Bake for 20 minutes (in a water bath -- but I didn't!) and serve at once.

I hope everyone who tries the recipe enjoys it!

Bob "Bobby V" Vander Woude
Pebble Beach

Q: John could you give me the name of any seafood dealer that will sell fairly small amounts of sild oil for my arthritis? Dean Mathis, Via e-mail

A: I believe I covered this subject before. Check out the column from March 5, 2002. If you are looking for fish oil, Sal at Monterey Fish says he has some pure fish oil he can give you. Call him at 422-9407.

Q: Dear Chef, with the abundance of seagulls around here, have they ever been a food source?

A: First of all, the gulls are a federally-protected bird. These guys are built for gliding, so the frame is quite large and I don’t think there’s much meat on their bones. However, a few years back there was a restaurant that served seagull. They called it “Mandarin chicken”, and all they served was the joint about 1 1/2” long, deep-fried with a delicious sauce. I was told they trapped them on the roof of the restaurant. I must tell you, I loved that dish, but after finding out that it was seagull I would never order it again. Needless to say he

was closed down and never reopened. Just goes to show you anything can be edible - skee-vo! I promise this is a true story and although they might be commended for creativity, I hope nobody else gets any strange ideas.

Q: Chef John Pisto, I have gone through several Italian cookbooks looking for an Alfredo Sauce to no avail. I would appreciate it if you would solve my dilemma. Thank you very much. Another John

A: With all the bad talk about cream and butter being so bad for you, I’m glad to see that someone still eats this delicious, rich dish. I wonder how long it will take people to realize that your body need’s fat. It’s the carbs that are the enemy folks. That’s right - sugar, flour, and other simple carbs that are the true enemy. Enjoy this dish without any guilt; just go easy on the pasta ok?

Alfredo Sauce Recipe

Serves 8 people

1lb. Sweet butter

1qt. Heavy cream

1/2 lb. Grated Parmesan

Salt & pepper

1lb. Dried pasta (fettuccini or linguini)

Have warmed plates ready

Add pasta to 4 quarts of salted, boiling water. It will cook in 8 to 10 minutes.

In a large frying pan add 1/2 quart of heavy cream and start reducing it. As it reduces, add chunks of butter, as the cream evaporates it will start getting thicker. Keep it on low. At this point drain the pasta (saving some water - very important). Add pasta to cream and butter. Now start stirring, add more cream and butter it should be soupy because it dries out quickly.

When all the butter and cream has been added, start adding the cheese and taste. When it tastes balanced (cream to butter to cheese), check the salt. Finish with a shot of black pepper and nutmeg (some folks use egg yolks to thicken it further). Plate it up and garnish with leaves of fresh basil, more cheese, and fresh cracked pepper. Remember, small portions buddy.

Q: Hello Chef John, What would you say distinguishes Monterey’s clam chowder from similar creamy clam chowders made in New England? Laura Cameron, Via e-mail

A: Everyone has his or her favorite recipe and even on the East Coast they differ. Creamy clam chowder always has these basics; onions, potatoes, roux, half and half (or heavy cream), bacon, clam juice and frozen or canned clams. Variations would include salt pork instead of bacon or adding some fresh corn or celery. Hope this answers your question, Laura and we’ll be looking for you at the annual Fisherman’s Wharf Chowder fest this Sunday!

Q: Dear Mr. Pisto, I received a large piece of smoked salmon for Christmas. The instructions say it is safe in the package, but when opened, must be frozen. Other than using it on bagels and cream cheese, I don’t know how to use it. I saw a lot of it for sale during the holidays, and I think there must be others who need recipes on how to use it. I’d like to see some in your good column. D. Duffy, Seaside

A: Ok D.D! Good question. Here are some suggestions:

1. On toast points with crème fraise and 3 capers (champagne or martini).

2. Cut into small pieces and add at the last minute to soft scrambled eggs. Garnish with chopped chives.

3. A couple of slices au natural, in

the middle of the night when you wake up and need something to eat (careful though, you will now have cat breath).

4. A simple pasta with cream, smoked salmon (cut into small pieces) and a little vodka (in the sauce D.D., not to drink).

5. Place 3 or 4 slices on a cold dish & drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, some chopped red onions, a few capers and fresh black pepper.

6. Use it as bait in Lake El Estero for crab and trout.

7. Make a smoked salmon chowder with onions, potatoes, leeks, and fresh corn.

8. Try some fresh dill with a canapé and cream (fresh).

9. Mix with ricotta cheese, eggs, and parsley for ravioli filling.

10. If all else fails, give some to your neighbors.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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