June 11, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

Q: Chef John,

I have just returned from Morocco and had an unbelievable date chutney. It was served with biscuits, cheese and fruit. It was divine. Any idea how to make it?

Via e-mail

A: Well, this sounds interesting. Here’s a recipe that will never be out of date! Seriously, this is really good. Hope this works for you. Try it with roast pork or lamb.

Tie the allspice berries in a muslin bag. Place the dates and chopped onions in a food processor and pulse until they are finely chopped but not mushy. Transfer the mixture to a non-reactive saucepan, add the remaining ingredients, bring to a boil and simmer over low heat until the chutney is thick, about 30 minutes. Remove the muslin bag. Allow the mixture to cool, then poor it into warmed, sterilized jars and seal. Dates keep well, so they are generally available year-around.

Q: There is something called the “pope’s nose” in cooking. Do you know what it is?

A: I know the pope’s nose as the tale portion of any fowl, you know the stubby tail. When cooked it is rather good and contains a lot of fat. My research tells me that it originated as a derogatory term meant to demean Catholic’s in England during the late 17th century. I’ll bet if you check in Catholic-Europe you’ll find a queen’s or king’s nose.

Q: Dear John,

Here’s another recipe for sea foam candy. I got this recipe when I was a teenager and am now 86. I thought you might like to add it to your collection. I’m going to try your recipe that calls for brown sugar.

Letter sent in, Margaret Berti

A: Oh boy - Busted! 1 pound may be a bit excessive for some (actually it should be 1 cube, 1/4 lb., 8 Tbsp, 1/2 cup, or 4 fluid ounces). One head of roasted garlic and four cloves of fresh garlic, chopped fine. If anyone out there tried the old recipe and found it a bit, should I say, “buttery,” I wouldn’t worry about it too much. It’s the bread that you should be worried about, not the butter. How many out there grab a burger, fries and a soda for lunch? What do you think is the best food in that trio? If you picked the burger, you’re right. Recently, the food triangle (or pyramid) has been undergoing some revisions. The real culprits challenging our desire to eat healthier are sugar, white flour and simple carbohydrates. Butter is considered a whole food and good for you just like cream; all types of meats; fish and fresh vegetables. Read up on Dr. Atkins - he got it right. There, my conscience is clear. P.S. I know people who don’t know how to boil water, much less bake garlic bread.

Q: Dear Chef Pisto,

I have recently read several articles about “umami.” Have you heard of this term?

Blake P., Monterey

A: I have also seen some articles about this recently. It is generally understood that there are four main taste sensations: sweet, salt, sour and bitter. Umami is a Japanese

some people’s physical reactions such as dizziness and headaches. I believe the renewed interest in umami is more about enjoying that savory sensation by finding foods naturally rich in glutamic acids. Several dishes devised by Chef Kurt at Blue Moon on Cannery, are rich in umami. Interestingly many people initially interpret the sensation as salt, rather than savory. Try something new, folks - you might just like it!