July 30, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

Oyster lovers rejoice! Boy, have I got good news. I just received, direct from Puget Sound by next-day air, fresh Kumamoto oysters. These are the finest, sweetest and best tasting half-shell oysters I have ever tasted. Now available at the Whaling Station, Blue Moon and Domenico’s, try these little beauties with a cold glass of Martin & Weyrich’s unwooded chardonnay - Perfect!

Busted! A reliable source told me the turtle soup at the legendary Neil DeVaughn’s was from a can (in the latter years)…how do ya like that? It seems they stopped serving the real stuff when turtle meat became illegal for cooking. I’m now

learn quickly without doing a lot of reading by simply tasting. It’s pretty easy to go out and visit several wineries right in our local area. Baywood Cellars, right by the Monterey Plaza Hotel and Taste of Monterey on Cannery Row would be a good start. Pavona just opened a new facility on River Road off of Highway 68, not far from Scheid Vineyards, which opened a couple of years ago. You could also head out to the Carmel Valley Village, stopping at Chateau Julien on the way, and check out several more. By the way, please don’t drink and drive. Just spit out each taste and wait until you get home to more closely examine your favorites.

Holy broiled bunnies! Merlot Bistro in Carmel is now serving “braised lapin.” That’s awful brave Cjaba (a.k.a. “the big rabbit”) - don’t say I didn’t warn you. There is now a local group called the rabbit police, who believe these furry little guys should only be pets in your yard and not on your menu. Maybe using the term “lapin” you’ll stay under their radar.

Q: Dear Chef,

I have noticed several restaurants promoting fixed price menus. Is this something new?

Allison S., Salinas, CA

A: This is a term referring to a preplanned, complete meal usually showcasing a particular restaurant’s signature dishes. Many times the menu can also be ordered with accompanying wines. The French term is “prix fixe.” In Italian its “prezzo frisso.” It’s not a new idea, just one that’s finding new popularity. Folks, give it a try. It’s a good way to get a feel for a restaurant and I really recommend it.

paste and continue to sauté. Add a pinch of saffron and a glass or two of dry white wine. Then add one glass of Ricard and 3 tablespoons of anise seed. Cook 20 minutes then add some stock or water. You now have your poaching liquid. Cook until all the flavors come together - 20 to 30 minutes.

Poach large pieces of any white fish you can find, bones and all (that’s right folks, bones and all!). Have the pieces cut about the size of your fist. Best fish to use would be any rockfish, lingcod, halibut, salmon, or grouper (don’t add other ingredients this time, just enjoy the fish). Cook until done and serve in a soup bowl with toast made from French bread. Make a mayonnaise in the blender. Then using a garlic press, squeeze 12 cloves of garlic into the blender. It must be hot and fiery, you know when it burns your mouth. This is called “aioli.” Put a large spoonful of the aioli into the soup and then spread some more on the toasted bread. Serve with a dry wine or light red and watch out! Guaranteed garlic breath in the morning, but well worth it. Just make sure both you and your significant other have equal portions.

Meanwhile, back on the “Hula Girl” we caught our limits and then did a little exploring. There are countless little bays, streams and waterfalls to see. Favorite Bay Sportfishing Lodge is spectacular. Mayor and guide extraordinaire, Floyd Kookash’s smoked salmon (as well as Lena’s) is in another league from anything we have ever tasted - outstanding! The Hula Girl rocks! Chef Pierre’s food; and can’t forget Gil & Devin Peck! It is very hard to leave such great people. Everyone is gathered at the wharf to bid us farewell - the pontoon plane is waiting (its like a scene from Fantasy Island). Until next year, folks. Like a great man said, thanks for the memories!