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Q:
Dear John:
Do you remember the mock
turtle soup that was served at Neil DeVaughn’s on Cannery Row? I loved
it and have been searching for a recipe. I have come up with recipes
that include everything from gingersnaps to oxtails to any type of meat
you can think of. Yes, even snapping turtle. But I remember it as a
thick broth that was dark in color, with no chunks of meat. Can you
help?
Thanks Karen,
e-mail
A:
Yo, Karen, I should get the detective of the year award
for this one. For those of you that don’t
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know Neil DeVaughn’s closed
around 10 years ago - it is now called Blue Moon on Cannery Row.
This was a very good restaurant run by the famous Werner Braun.
He now lives in the Valley and is doing well. He hangs out with his
buddy Chris Sprecker, owner of the Summer House restaurant in Carmel
Valley. Werner tells me he threw out all the recipes, but questioning
him (or should I say pestering him) this is what we came up with: Start
by making a stock using carrots, celery, onions, and salt and pepper.
Add well trimmed oxtails dusted with flour, salt and pepper. Brown well
then add dry sherry, reduce and then add water. Bring to a boil, skim
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cook until the meat falls
off the bone (about 1 1/2 to 2 hours), with the pot partially covered.
In another pot, sauté leeks, carrots, parsley (all chopped fine), until
soft. Add some flour and continue cooking another 15 minutes (med low).
Strain the stock and add to vegetable mixture, then stir and blend well.
It should become thick. Now add the meat from the oxtail, but first
remove it from the bone making it into shreds. Add a bit of cayenne
pepper, thyme, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, Worcestershire sauce, and salt
and pepper. Now for the most important part, serve in a bowl with a
beaker of dry sherry on the side. Hope it works for you Karen.
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