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January 8, 2003          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q:   Dear Chef,   

As you advised, we have indulged in the recent bounty of fresh Dungeness crab now in season. When shopping around, we found that "fresh" cooked whole crab was available at the supermarket for two or three dollars cheaper than the local fish markets, but what a difference there is! The only way to eat crab is to go down and get it truly fresh-cooked, cracked and cleaned or, as you recommended, go ahead and cook them yourself. Would you please provide another recipe for us to try while they are still so abundant?   

Ashley Marie, Carmel

A:   Now you're getting it Ash! Fresh is always best and bringing them home and cooking them yourself can be a blast. Here is my very favorite way to eat these seasonal beauties. Give it a try and let me know how you make out.

Sicilian Marinated Crab Recipe

Serves 4-6

3 large live or fresh crabs, or 3 fresh cooked fish market crabs
4-6 garlic cloves
1/2 bunch Italian flat-leaf parsley
1 lemon (juice only)
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper
2 teaspoons spicy mustard
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
salt & freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pot (8 quarts) of salted water to a rapid boil. Carefully drop live crabs into pot. Cook for 15-20 minutes. Fresh cooked crabs need not be re-heated.
While the crabs are cooking, you may prepare the marinating sauce. You will need a medium-sized mixing bowl. Chop garlic cloves coarsely. Remember, the finer the chop, the more powerful the garlic flavor. Remove stems and chop Italian parsley. Place in bowl. Squeeze lemon juice into bowl. Add vinegar, olive oil, mustard and crushed red pepper. Whisk together. Salt and pepper to taste.

Remove crabs from pot (do not rinse) and let cook until able to handle. Remove outer shell. Remove lungs (fingers) and mouth from shell and discard. Scrape out remaining crab butter. Add crab butter to the marinated sauce.

Remove crab legs. Cut between knuckles for nice serving pieces. Tap each leg gently until cracked. Place on large platter, squeeze lemon juice over crab, and pour sauce over dish. Refrigerate for one hour - or as long as you can wait. Serve with crusty sourdough bread and a dry white wine. Bibs are also recommended.

 

Readers:   While visiting Paris a while ago, we ate dinner at a fantastic nightclub called Le Buddha Bar. It is the most exciting concept I've seen in a long time and their unique blend of music (available at Do Re Mi Records) is guaranteed to make you get up a dance at your table (by the way, there's no dance floor but people don't seem to mind). The food is Pacific Rim with Asian influences from Japan (sushi), China, Malaysia, India, Bali and others. I noticed Kobe beef on the menu for $60 and had to give it a try. I was served a 4-ounce, sliced piece of pretty good New York. Did you know there is a local steakhouse that serves a full-sized Kobe New York steak?

Q  Dear John,   Thank you for taking the time to identify the mushrooms that I collected. Even though you said they would be safe to eat, we decided to go out and shop for some instead. We were able to get some dried Porcini mushrooms that, when reconstituted, were really very good (not to mention safe). We cooked them with some wine and butter and served them over steaks. Can you suggest another recipe?
John and Ada Peachnut, Salinas

A:   Folks, it is officially mushroom season as I have been bombarded lately with letters and visitors with fungi questions. I have received photos of mushrooms by e-mail, baskets and bags of them left at my office door, and even a piece of one sent in the mail by a nice lady whose dog had just eaten it (I hear her pooch is doing just fine). Here is one of my favorite winter mushroom dishes:

Italian Sausage Recipe with Polenta and PorciniServes 6-8

 

1 pound Italian sausage, skin removed
1 package polenta
1/2 cup porcini mushrooms, dried
1 quart tomatoes, chopped, in puree
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 Reggiano Parmesan cheese, grated
1 teaspoon black pepper, ground
1/2 large yellow onion, chopped
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup petite peas
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Reconstitute mushrooms in a cup of warm water for 20 minutes. Squeeze excess water from mushrooms and set aside. Prepare polenta according to package instructions. When mixture is thick, add butter and stir to melt; then add cheese and do the same. Place cooked polenta on a lightly buttered baking dish to form an even layer, approximately ½-inch thick. Place baking dish into refrigerator. When firm (after about 30 minutes), cut polenta into square or diamond shapes. Place polenta squares on a well-oiled stovetop grill or skillet and grill for 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Set aside. Coat the bottom of a large saucepan with olive oil, and place over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic, and sausage, breaking sausage into pieces as it cooks. Stir frequently while browning. When sausage begins to brown, add wine and mix well. Add tomatoes, red pepper and sugar, stirring frequently. Lower heat to medium and add peas. Simmer for another 10 to 15 minutes. Place grilled polenta squares on plates, spoon sauce over polenta, and add a portion of sausage mixture to plate. Serve with grated cheese and black pepper.

 

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