January 1, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

January 1, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q: Dear Chef, I'm a local commercial fisherman in Monterey and enjoy cooking. How about a recipe for barbecued oysters?

Anthony Russo
Captain of the "Sea Wave"

A: What a pleasure to hear from you Anthony. Folks, Anthony is a nice guy and very important around here. He is the guy that catches all the beautiful squid, sardines and fresh anchovies right here in Monterey Bay. All three of these fish are tremendously delicious and not used enough here. What a fine renewable resource we have at our doorstep. Okay, Anthony, here are a couple of easy recipes. First you must get the oysters. Monterey Fish Company (375-3511), located at the end of commercial Wharf #2, has the right kind of oysters for barbecuing - extra large Pacific's. Ask for Buster Crab (really); he knows what I'm talking about - figure 2-3 per person.

Oyster barbecue sauce recipe #1

1 cup Heinz ketchup
a few drops of liquid smoke
2 cloves chopped garlic
juice of one lemon
a shot of Worcestershire
2 shots of Tabasco
2 pieces of crumbled bacon
black pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients together and it's ready to go.

Oyster barbecue sauce recipe #2

Slowly melt a half-pound of sweet butter. Add 8 finely chopped garlic cloves, half a bunch of chopped parsley, a shot of Pernod or Ricard, black pepper to taste and the juice of one lemon. Have one cup of seasoned breadcrumbs and additional butter on hand.

Now for the oysters. To open them, put down a layer of rock salt (one-eight of an inch thick) on sheet pan. Place the oysters deep-side down on top of the salt (an oyster has a flat side and a deep side, got it?). Now place in a 400-degree oven and watch them closely. The oysters should pop in 6 to 8 minutes. You just want them to pop, not cook. Remove from oven and carefully remove top shell, cutting the top muscle with a small knife. Don't spill the juice! Put the oysters back on the salted tray, add your sauce and finish cooking another 5 to 8 minutes. You don't want to over-cook or under-cook them. If you are using sauce #2, add sauce, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and add a little butter on top before cooking.

Thank for writing Anthony and say hi to Captain Sam (my nephew).

Q: Dear John, I live near a local forested area, and it seems to me that I am not seeing wild mushrooms in abundance as I used to. Are too many people gathering them now? Is it possible that they can be over-harvested? Via e-mail

A: First of all, let me say it again - Don't eat wild mushrooms unless you first get positive identification by an expert! One mistake could kill you. Now, to answer your question, mushrooms grow from mycelium, which is like thick white threads under the forest cover. Imagine that the mycelium is a tree. When it fruits, it produces a 'shroom. So, can they be over-harvested? No, but if you disturb the mycelium, you could kill the tree. Every year is different and some are better than others.

Mushroom season can be longer or shorter. Look at it this way, walking in the forest is so refreshing - cool, green and beautiful. Finding a mushroom is a bonus, so enjoy your walk, but keep your eyes open.

Readers: So much for the college vegetarian. My daughter, who recently went away to college as a vegetarian (why do kids do this?), returned home last week for the holidays. When I asked what she would like for dinner her first night home, she said, "Steak, Dad." Steak? All right, G-bop! Now, that's my girl!

Q: Dear Chef, We enjoyed visiting your web site and would like some recipes using our new wood-fired oven. Glenn - via email

A: I suggest you check out Mugnaini Imports in Watsonville, www.mugnaini.com. Call (888) 887-7206 and ask for John. These folks sell, install and give cooking classes specializing in wood-burning ovens and are great folks, too.

My New Year's Resolution: Stomp out the food police! Don't eat this, don't eat that, then they reverse themselves. Folks, eat a steak, eat eggs, eat butter, but exercise a little. Go for a walk with the wife and kids and don't be afraid to have a glass of wine once in a while. Get the pleasure from tasting these wonderful natural foods as Mother Nature intended. Moderation in all things includes moderation, right? Oh boy, I've said it.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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