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Dear Chef Pisto:
My Grandmother used to make Swiss steak and mashed potatoes. I remember
it so fondly. I can smell it cooking right now. Can you help with a
recipe?
Julie P., Carmel
A: Ah, Swiss steak (or
cube steak) in tomato sauce. I remember this one from chef school. It
was a popular lunch or dinner item in the 50's and 60's. The Blue Plate
Special - so to speak. I'm sure you can make it either with brown gravy
or tomato sauce. But, I remember it with tomato sauce. Ask your butcher
to put some top round, bottom round, or sirloin tip through the meat
tenderizer two times. I talked to Joe at Monte Vista Market, and they do
this all the time. He also reminded me that in years past the local
Italians used to make breaded meat with this cut. They would simply dip
them in flour, eggs and seasoned
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breadcrumbs then fry it. A
real Monterey local dish. But then again, in Monterey we breaded
everything.
Swiss Steak Recipe ala Tommy Marharis: 2
lbs. of tenderized top round, bottom round, or sirloin tip. Season well,
dip in seasoned flour and brown. Remove the meat. Using the same frying
pan (don't use cast iron) sauté garlic, onions, parsley, and mushrooms.
Add some crushed tomatoes, tomato puree, and a splash of red wine. Cook
until it reduces a bit. Add the meat, Cook another 15 minutes and serve
with fresh green beans and buttermilk mashed potatoes. Put on some 50's
or 60's music and remember Grandma.
Tommy Maharis - an
old friend and restauranteur from lower Alvarado Street during the 50's
and 60's. We later worked together at the Golden Tee Restaurant after
graduation from chef school. Tommy and his lovely wife Lula, |
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had several restaurants
in Old Monterey. Every Saturday while working in my Dad's tailor shop, I
would go to Tommy's joint and get hot roast beef sandwiches for my mom,
dad and myself. What a treat it was. Ah, the old lower Alvarado Street,
now that was a street that was part Italy,
part Army and part New Orleans. There used to be a guy that would walk
up and down Alvarado with a tray of cannoli every Sunday (I always
wondered who that was). Everyone would congregate down at the end of
Alvarado across from the Old Monterey Theatre after Mass. The sardine
fishermen and their families would then go home for traditional Sunday
pasta with either roast beef or chicken. The women would wash the dishes
and the men would all fall asleep on soft chairs and couches. When they
woke up, there would be dessert, coffee, and liquors. Ah, Sunday pasta
dinner, a great tradition in Monterey.
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