February 12, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

February 12, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q: Hi John, What is chicken-fried steak? I have always thought it was chicken, but my husband says it is actually steak. Also, is it difficult to make?

Julie Valdez, Via e-mail

A: Well Julie, now you’re talking. From what I understand, it was brought over by German Immigrants in the 1800’s. Probably in the manner of snitchzel (or cutlets), which always means meat - beef, pork, or veal, pounded. Pound your favorite meat in flour with the edge of a sturdy plate. Fry it in bacon grease and, after removing it from the pan, add some milk to the bacon grease to make a gravy. After you eat this you’re ready to go out and plow the back forty. This is real comfort food, not seen around here much but still very popular in the south.

Here’s my chicken-fried steak recipe “Pisto style.” Have your butcher tenderize some round steak or sirloin tip - make sure it’s no more than a half-inch thick. Next, season some flour with salt and pepper, Sensational Seasoning, garlic powder, and sage. Dip in flour, then in an egg wash, then flour again. You can also dip it in buttermilk then seasoned flour and fry. Fry them in bacon fat, lard or vegetable oil. Make a pan gravy and there you have it.

For the pan gravy recipe: Drain oil from pan. Add bacon (chopped very fine), buttermilk, chopped green onions, and a bit of garlic. Stir to pick up all the pieces and save on the side for the mashed potatoes.

Trivia: Did you know that the Weber BBQ has been around since 1951 and is responsible for sparking the backyard BBQ revolution?

Q: Dear Chef: What’s the difference between bruschetta and crostini?

Willie Jong, Via e-mail

A: Bruschetta are slices of country bread grilled over a wood fire then rubbed with garlic. The bread is usually good-sized slices.

Crostini literally means “little crusts.” They are usually small enough to serve as hors d’ oeuvres. One famous one is made with chicken livers. Rustic breads take on a wonderful flavor when toasted on an open fire. Try some good quality sweet butter sometime and toast the bread until it gets a little burnt on the edges. If you don’t have an open fire handy, try a stovetop grill, it works just as well.

Q: Dear Chef, What’s all the fuss about salt? Some are pretty expensive and I’m a bit confused. I saw one recently going for $30.00 a pound! What do you use? Salvatore Balesteri

A: Great question: I use kosher salt at home. Here’s the skinny on my research: Table salt is what most of us know. It is mined and processed with additives that prevent caking. It tastes saltier and harsher when compared to other types; does not dissolve well and lingers too long on the tongue.

Kosher salt is made by pressing between rollers that produce large flakes and it contains no additives. Because of it’s flaky structure, kosher salt dissolves easily and imparts plenty of flavor.

Sea salt is created from ocean waters in shallow beds and the crystals are large. Depending on the local water and other peculiar factors of the area, flavors will differ.

Here are some “gourmet” salts that are currently available:

Malcolm sea salt, from England runs about $11.00 a pound. It is a very soft, is used mainly for finishing dishes and has a light taste on the tongue.

Sel Gris, or “gray salt” is from France’s Atlantic Coast. It has a gray color and a distinct flavor due to minerals in the local clay.

Fleur de Sel, or “flower of the gray salt” is expensive. It is only

made a few days each year when the weather is especially calm and warm. On these particular days, the salt blooms create lacy white crystals that are then skimmed off. This salt is used on food just before serving.

Red Alae Hawaiian sea salt comes both red and black. I use the red when making poki - it adds a bit of authenticity to the dish. The flavor is a little strange because the red comes from iron in the rocks. A little iron never hurt anyone; in fact we can all use a little more, I’m sure. The black salt tends to have a slightly sulfuric aroma apparently from purified lava.

So there you are, Sally boy!

Q: Dear Chef: I’m confused about all the different types of rice. Can you explain?

A new cook from Oregon

A: Sure! It’s a very good question. Here’s a short definition for you. Here is a run down of some basic types: First there is “short grain”, which means the grain is as wide as it is long. This is used for sushi - small grains, soft and sticky after cooking; “sweet” or “sticky” rice - short grained and glutinous, used for Asian desserts;

and Italian rice - a short grained variety that doesn’t get sticky, but the inside stays firm while the outside gets creamy (risotto). Next there are the “long grain” types, which can be four or five times longer than it is wide. Examples include “basmati” (which means “queen of fragrance”) and jasmine rice. Both cook up moist and tender. “Medium grain” is used when you’re not sure of what rice a dish calls for, because it is slightly sticky but cooks up moist and tender.

Brown rice hasn’t been milled and still contains the husk, bran and germ. It’s chewier and better for you and comes in either medium or long grain. “Parboiled” rice is a process that leaves the rice without a lot of the surface starch. It does, however, retain more nutrients than typical milled white rice. Instant, pre-cooked and flash-frozen rice products are made for quick and easy preparation, but you pay for it with a nutritionally inferior finished product. Whew! I hope this has made things a bit clearer.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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