December 24, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

December 24, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q: Dear Mr. Pisto,

What I really want for Christmas is a good biscotti recipe. My father-in-law came from Italy. As a young bride, my husband took me down to his house so I could follow Papa around and learn how to cook. We lived in Pennsylvania, so the whole yard was a miniature greenhouse. Between his garden and my father's, we canned and froze things all summer just to survive the winter. The real biscotti recipe eludes me. Thanks for many fine recipes over the years and have a happy holiday.

Charlotte Alioia, Monterey

A: Thanks for the great story Charlotte. Sound just like my wife. Here is a very simple recipe just for you:

Almond Biscotti Recipe

Ingredients:

1 stick of butter

1 cup of sugar

1 large egg

2-1/2 to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (dough should be stiff)

1 teaspoon of baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup of almond liquor

1/4 cup of water

1-1/2 cups of slivered almonds

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift the dry ingredients together in a bowl 3 times. Set aside. In a large bowl, cream the butter with electric mixer. Add the sugar gradually until well blended. Add the vanilla and liquor and mix well. Gradually add the sifted ingredients and water.

Fold in the slivered almonds. Spread the dough on a cookie sheet to form a 9-1/2 x 5-inch loaf. Bake 30 minutes or until the dough is firm. Remove the cookies and let cool for 5 minutes. Cut cookies into 1-inch crosswise slices. Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees. Place the cookies back on the cookie sheet on their side and return to the oven to toast about 5 minutes on each side. Cool the cookies completely on a
rack (cookies will remain soft until cooled).

Q: Dear Chef Pisto,

I heard today on the radio about the Italian tradition of eating seafood on Christmas Eve. Seven kinds of seafood, representing the seven sacraments. However, this was an East Coast version. Do you have suggestions for a Monterey Bay Christmas Eve feast? Thanks, Sara, from Pacific Grove (Love your column and I'm asking for Kobe beef in my stocking!).

A: To give you some idea, here's what this Italian's family will be feasting on Christmas Eve: oysters and clams on the half-shell; sautéed salmon (or anchovies packed in oil) with crusty bread; octopus (or squid) salad and prawn cocktails. All of these items are usually served on the counter with a cocktail in hand (we call it "picking"). Now comes the serious food: fried oysters, Monterey Bay prawns, steamed clams, baked

lobster, baccala cioppino, crab cioppino and abalone. For salad, we have always put chunks of fresh anise on the table. Nothing on it, just plain. You will be surprised how refreshing it is. Next, roasted chestnuts and other assorted roasted nuts and coffee. Finally, some Italian cookies, a few cannolis and liqueurs for sipping. Now, if you're still standing, it's time for a few hands of poker. This is also the time when you get friends and relations coming by to say hello. This means drinks, cookies, cannoli and maybe some "fresh meat" for poker. At 11:30, it's time to head for church and midnight mass. After, back to the house for an Italian sausage sandwich and more picking. So, Sara, there you have it. As far as the Kobe beef, tell your husband to call my office (373-3778), I'll sell him a beauty! Happy Holidays.

Q: Dear Chef Pisto,

I am looking for a recipe called "Caponatina eggplant". Can you help me? My mother used to make it and I can't find her recipe.
Thank you.

Via e-mail

A: This sweet-and-sour Sicilian eggplant dish is one of my favorite appetizers. Start with eggplant cut into half-inch cubes. Soak in salted ice water for 20 minutes. Cut one large onion into a large dice. 10 garlic cloves cut in half. 8 ribs of celery cut into half-inch pieces. Fry each item separately in olive oil. Drain well, mix them all together then add enough warm tomato puree to bind. Next add a few capers, pine nuts, a splash of red wine vinegar and a pinch of sugar. Serve at room temperature with salt, pepper and some crushed red pepper.

Readers: Just had another great lunch at the new Sea Harvest in Moss Landing. Definitely order any of the grilled fish dishes. Keep it up folks!

Q: Dear Chef,

Thank you for all the information on cooking. We also enjoy your cuisine every time we go to Monterey. I was asked to make a standing rib roast with a crust (probably garlic-based) for the family. What would you recommend? I have never put that together.

Greg B., Via e-mail

A: What makes a roast a great roast is the crust. It's all about

flavor. First rub the entire roast with oil. then with salt, pepper and Sensational Seasoning (tm) (available at Monte Vista Market, Monterey). You must use lots of fresh black pepper. Then add seasoned breadcrumbs with just enough oil added to make it moist. Bake uncovered 15 minutes per pound for rare; 20 minutes per pound for medium-rare. Use a roast thermometer for insurance - good luck, it will be fabulous!

Folks, enjoy the holidays, kiss the cook and, as always, help clean up!

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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