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August 11, 2003          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q:   Dear John,

We very much enjoy your programs and your cookbooks. We had a wonderful meal with recipes from one of your shows about a year ago. We have lost the recipes but have frequently talked about the meal. The show featured a guest chef. You and he cooked a meal that included a round steak dish in which flour was pounded into the meat as it was tenderized. It also included a wonderful okra dish that we have not been able to duplicate. As Southerners, we have a deep appreciation for okra, and that particular dish was one of the best we've tasted. Can you tell us where we might find the recipe for that meal - especially the okra dish?

Thanks so much -  Melinda Ricks, Via e-mail

A Well Melinda, my best guess for that show was one I did with William Rice, food writer for the Chicago Tribune. The recipes we used came from his wonderful book called “Steak Lovers Cookbook” by William Rice (Workman Publishing). We prepared chicken fried steak with buttermilk gravy and okra with onions and toasted cumin. Melinda and folks, this is a great book. It is probably the best book around dedicated to beef and steaks.

Dear John,

You were certainly right about those peaches. I went up to the Frog Hollow Farm stand at the Santa Cruz Farmer's Market the day your article appeared. I got a box of apricots (the last of the season) and a box of Flavorcrest

peaches (which Farmer Al said were the ones you referred to). They were so good I was only able to freeze two jars. The rest got eaten! It was well worth the $3.30/lb. Al told me that the Flavorcrests were only the beginning of the good peaches - that the REALLY good peaches are ready in late July and August. Guess I'd better make another trip up there (and hide a box someplace for freezing). Thanks for the tip!

Jeanne T., Monterey

Folks, now that’s what I’m talking about! A great peach is truly one of the life’s most sensational experiences.

 

Q:   Hi John,

I'm originally from Sonoma County, and would regularly visit the Vella Cheese shop in Sonoma, where I had the best Monterey Jack Cheese. Why is Monterey Jack cheese made there instead of here? How did Monterey Jack cheese get its name?

I called the Carmel Plaza cheese shop and they seem quite certain that it was named after David Jacks who sold the recipe to the Vella family, which runs the cheese shop in Sonoma (and they are the only ones with the original recipe now, the rest being mass produced). The Carmel Plaza does sell Vella Monterey Jack, apparently. (The Vella Cheese Factory also does the dry Monterey Jack, which I love!)

Karen Nordstrande-mail

A The original Monterey Jack cheese was made in Carmel Valley. The name Jack came from a press that they used to squeeze

and form the cheese (A-jack). David Jacks was a prominent figure in the Monterey area and a major landowner. One of his endeavors was making cheese. Put the two together and you come up with Jack cheese. Mr. Jacks never sold the recipe because there wasn’t one, plus the time frame was not right. I called the Vella Cheese Co. and they told me that it was a common cheese at the time and mostly sold in soft form. The two companies that took Jack cheese to its fame are Vella Cheese Co. and Sonoma Cheese Factory in Sonoma and these guys used to be partners way back. Their real claim to fame was producing the cheese in the dry form. This was used by the Italian’s for their pasta (I remember my uncle bringing back wheels of the dry Jack in the 1940’s and 1950’s). This cheese is regarded as a national treasure by cheese lovers. Dry Jack is rock hard, unpasturized cow’s milk that rivals Reggiano Parmisano both in flavor and visual appeal. Try it over pasta, I am. The Cheese Shop, in Carmel Plaza, carries the Vella’s dry Jack (625-2272).
Readers:   Another great recipe for over ripe summer heirloom tomatoes.
Heirloom Tomatoes Recipe

For four people as main course or 6 people as appetizers. 1 pound of spaghetti or linguine, 4 pound of extra ripe tomatoes, cored and lightly squeezed over the sink to rinse off some of the liquid and seeds. Cut into quarters. In a large frying pan (not cast iron) sauté 1 large chopped onion, 6 chopped garlic cloves, a pinch of crushed red pepper, salt and pepper, and a handful of chopped flat Italian parsley in about 1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil. When light brown, add tomatoes. Now using a potato masher, mash the tomatoes well, no chunks. Then reduce until all thin liquid is gone, about 15 to 20 minutes, on medium to medium high heat. Add 1/2 a tube tomato paste. When it’s thickened (no water in th pan), add 1 cup chopped fresh basil. Boil pasta, drain, add to sauce and toss well. Serve with fresh grated Romano cheese - Unbelievable! Note: Using several different colors of tomatoes makes the sauce look great.

 

Garlic and lamb lovers!   If you love both of these things here’s a great recipe that’s fast and easy. Team it up with a tomato-cucumber salad and steamed green beans and, whamo! Your eatin’ good. Garlic Lamb Recipe
For four people: 2 chops for men, 1 chop each for ladies. 6 thick shoulder lamb chops seasoned heavily with salt and pepper and

herbs of Provence. Grill on a stovetop grill or outside or fry in large cast iron frying pan. Add a bit of oil to pan and cook to medium. In a frying pan, slowly sauté 50 cloves of sliced garlic in olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add a bit of crushed red pepper and 1/2 cup of red wine vinegar (after the garlic is lightly browned).

Place the chops on a large platter, squeeze some fresh lemon over them and sprinkle with crumbled dry oregano. Finally add all of the garlic, bring out some crusty bread and you’ve got it!

 

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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