August 6, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

August 6, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q: Dear Chef Pisto,

Recently on a trip to the Monterey Peninsula we visited the beautiful Big Sur. I loved the redwood forests, and noticed the clover-like groundcover. I was told it’s called sorrel. Is this the same sorrel used in sauces? Can one pick and eat this wild plant? Can you share a recipe for sorrel sauce?

Thank you, Louise B., San Francisco

A: Great eyes Louise. What you saw is called redwood sorrel. I’m sure it looked like large four leaf clovers. Yes it is very edible. Did you know that oxalic acid is what makes it sour? The young leaves go great in salads or cooked as a vegetable. Garden sorrel and redwood sorrel can be used to flavor cream soups, pureed as accompaniments for meats and vegetables, or used in omelets and breads.

Sorrel Sauce Recipe for fish: Quickly blanch a bunch of sorrel (just in and out of boiling water). Put into cold water and squeeze dry. Sauté 3 shallots (diced) in butter on medium low heat about 10 minutes and add 2 cups of heavy cream. Bring to a boil and carefully reduce until it coats the back of a spoon (10 minutes). Strain well, now add salt and white pepper and a dash of nutmeg. Add the chopped sorrel to the sauce and there you are, redwood sorrel cream sauce. By the way, once while carefully collecting in the park near there, I got busted big time - but that’s another story.

Dear Chef,

I’m looking for salt peter, aka Potassium Nitrate, the ingredient that keeps meat pink.

Mrs. Bemis. via phone

A: Good question Mrs. “B”, this is some pretty unusual stuff. Did you know that it’s one of the ingredients in gunpowder? Magically speaking, Salt Peter has a very long history in voodoo an agent of magical protection. Also used in spiritual baths, floor washes and as a shoe sprinkle. Back in the 60’s it was rumored that the army added it to

food to kind of control amorous feelings. Salt Peter has been banned for health reasons from most curing operations. It is however still available. I called Vince at Ordway Pharmacy and he’s got it. Mrs. Bemis here’s the ingredients for gunpowder if you ever need it: Sulfer, Salt Peter and charcoal. It’s also used in fireworks, fluxes, pickling meats, manufacture of glass, matches, blasting powder, a freezing mixture, treating tobacco to make it burn evenly, and tempering steel. In foods a small amount is allowed because it prevents botulism growth. For what it’s worth - stay away from this stuff.

Readers: Here’s a little known fact: What is Hooch and where did this word come from?

It means a liquor either illegally produced (boot leg) or real cheap stuff (rot gut). The name originated in the late 1800’s with a tribe of Alaskan Indians. It comes from an Indian village called Hoochinoo (Hootchinoo) a Tlingit Indian Village on Admiralty Island, Alaska. Apparently the inhabitants made and sold the alcoholic spirits illegally. Well folks, my friends up there never told me about this. This is worth investigating further, so stand by.

Hot tip on summer tomatoes! The heirloom tomatoes are here. Pick carefully, folks, the are not all the same. Some are much better than others. Taste them first if possible before you buy. I recently bought a whole box and could not eat them fast enough, so I let them get nice and soft and made the most delicious pasta ever. It’s the one that is the most requested in my home. Use one pound of pasta (angel hair, linguine or penne will do) as an appetizer for six regular people, or dinner four Italians. Remember to use only vine-ripened, soft, heirloom tomatoes. Start with three pounds of assorted tomatoes cored and diced into one-inch chunks; two cups of fresh

basil cut into small pieces; one-quarter cup of your best extra-virgin olive oil; salt and pepper; a pinch of crushed red pepper; one-half cup of drained capers; 10-12 fresh garlic cloves (these must be put through a garlic press - I love it hot - taste as you go because you must taste the raw garlic to make the flavor work); two tins of chopped anchovies (optional); one cup freshly grated Romano cheese and half a can of

pitted kalamata olives, rough chopped. Boil pasta in salted water. Drain and immediately add all ingredients. Toss well and serve with extra grated cheese as needed. Note that the sauce is actually made from the tomato juice, olive oil and the grated cheese - unbelievable!

Q: Dear Chef Pisto,

I was watching you on TV and you were displaying a giant crab. I think you said it was from Australia. It was the biggest crab I have ever seen. Can you tell me where you bought it?

Mrs. David Jones, Via e-mail.

A: Well Mrs. J, you must have been watching one of the shows I did with Sammy Hagar. What you saw was an Australian king crab, one of the largest and most beautiful crabs I have ever seen. They run 18 to 25 pounds each (now that’s big). Make sure you’re hungry. There are two bay area stores that I know of that can get them for you. Both are in Cupertino: Tin Tin at 10881 S. Blaney Avenue; and Ranch 99 at 10983 North Wolfe Road (408) 255-7804.

Q: Dear John,

I’ve searched you web site and can’t find a place to buy some really good Italian sausage. The kids are coming this weekend and a big pot of spaghetti will fit the bill with plenty of leftovers when they leave!

Cathy

Castroville - e-mail

A: Cathy, I’ve tried a lot of sausage and I still think good old Troia’s Market, on the corner of Del Monte and Pacific Street in Monterey, makes the best. You know, some grilled sausage with bell peppers and onions sound pretty good right now!

Q: Chef John,

I just watched your show and tried to pull that recipe but couldn’t find it. The spareribs that you cooked fell apart when you took them out of the oven. Will you be putting this on your web page or could you e-mail it to me?

Randy Tuck - Faithful watcher

A: I’ll do better than that, watcher. I’ll put it in the paper and on the web page. I call this one taking the mystery out of cooking spareribs. Start with the ribs. Rub them well with my Sensational Seasoning® or any other dry rub. Placed them on a flat sheet pan and cook for one hour at 400 degrees. They should be sizzling, nice and brown. Now, wrap them in tin foil and add some liquid (beer, Pepsi, Stout, or whatever) and put them back in the oven at 250 degrees for another hour and BINGO!

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