April 30, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

April 30, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q: John, Being born and raised in Salinas (and being stationed at the Defense Language Institute in Monterey during the late ‘60s), your calamari Siciliano has been a favorite for longer than I would care to recall! I’ve since retired and moved up to the hills around Mariposa and just don’t get the opportunity to get to the coast as often as I would like. You used to make the offer to us mere mortal folk to come back into the kitchen to see how things were done (I never did, like a dummy). Is there any way I could talk you into divulging the recipe for Calamari Siciliano? Not to replace what I get at your place, you understand, just something to tide me over until I can return to my roots! Thanks in advance,

Tom Vasquez, Mariposa, CA, Via e-mail

A). Tommy, Tommy, Tommy! My late grandmother, lying on her deathbed, summoned me over and asked, “Johnny my boy, please, please can I have the recipe for calamari Siciliano?” My response, with tears in my eyes, “Grandma I love you, but I’m so sorry, I cannot give you that recipe.” Tommy, I hope that answers your question. Try this one instead, Calamari Recipe - St. Tropez from my cookbook.

2 1/2 lbs. cleaned squid mantles & tentacles

1 lg. Yellow onion

3 carrots

3 leeks (white portion only)

2 lg. Potatoes

6 Roma tomatoes

4 garlic cloves

1/2 tsp. dried basil

Rinds from 1/2 a lemon & 1/2 an orange

1/4 cup Ricard liquor (optional)

1/4 cup white wine

2 Tbsp. tomato paste

2 Tbsp. Pisto’s Sensational Seasoning

Pinch of saffron

Olive oil

Salt and black pepper to taste

Dice onion. Cut carrots and leeks into matchstick-sized pieces. Cut potatoes into 1/2 inch slices. Chop tomatoes into bite-sized pieces. Dice garlic. Using a 4-quart pot, sauté onions, leeks, potatoes, carrots, garlic, and basil in olive oil for five to seven minutes over medium heat. Add lemon and orange rinds, Ricard liquor, white wine, tomatoes and tomato paste, stirring continuously. Stir in Sensational Seasoning®, saffron, salt and black pepper. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Cut squid mantles into rings. Sauté rings and tentacles in a large skillet with olive oil and a splash of white wine for three to five minutes. Mix into sauce and serve with toasted Italian bread.

Death Cap Alert! Due to recent rains I have noticed the Death Cap reappearing. It is a white mushroom with white gills and has a cream metallic sheen on the cap. BE CAREFUL!

Q: Hi John,

I am trying to get a hold of your Mushroom Paella recipe we saw while we were in Carmel. I thought I could do it by memory. That doesn’t work well, so I thought I might be able to get it from your website. Can you help?

Thank you, Jeannie S B, Via e-mail

A: I think you mean Mushroom Risotto, because I use my paella pan for my risotto. Here it is:

Wild Mushroom Champagne Risotto Recipe Serves four.

1/2lb. assorted fresh wild mushrooms, cleaned and chopped

1 cup risotto (long grain rice)

1 sm. head treviso, chopped

1 lg. white onion, chopped

1 lg. leek (white part only), cleaned and chopped

2-3 cloves fresh garlic, chopped

2 Tbsp butter

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup champagne or sparkling wine

Splash of heavy cream

Olive oil, salt & pepper

4-6 cups chicken stock

1/4 cup pine nuts

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Cover bottom of large pan with olive oil, place over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic and leeks to pan and sauté until opaque, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add mushrooms, butter, pine nuts, risotto and 2 cups stock and reduce, stirring often, about 8 minutes. Add wine and reduce. Continue cooking approximately 15 to 20 minutes until liquid is absorbed and risotto is soft. Fold in chopped treviso, add a touch of heavy cream and champagne and reduce further, another 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to serving bowl and garnish with freshly grated Parmesan cheese and black pepper. Enjoy!

Q: Dear Chef,

I recently had a filet mignon at a local restaurant and it tasted like liver. I returned it and got another that was a little better. What happened? I’m confused about the word “Prime” used so often on menus these days. Does it always have to do with the USDA grade called Prime?

Steve Davis, Marina, CA

A: Liver-tasting filet? According to my experts, liver-tasting meat

means the animal was improperly dressed. This animal is known as a “dark cutter” and the meat is usually a very deep red. It was either dressed too slow or too late and usually occurs with lesser quality grades of beef, often from dairy cows. The best beef, of course, comes from a steer. Now, “prime” vs. “USDA Prime.” This can be confusing, much like something labeled “organic” which has only recently been more clearly defined. I believe the meat industry needs to do the same with the word “Prime.” Prime by itself means nothing - it is

simply an adjective. However, when used along with “USDA”, it denotes a product that has been graded by the United States Department of Agriculture and represents only the top 1-2% of all graded steers. This is the very best beef in the world - period (also some of the most expensive, you get what you pay for, folks). So Stevie, next time you see the word “prime” on a menu, ask to see the USDA stamp or label. Without such proof, it’s just another “prime” example of misrepresentation.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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