April 23, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

April 23, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Dear Chef Pisto: Quite some time ago you had a recipe for fried plantain chips. Perhaps you are unaware that this recipe calls for frying twice, your recipe only mentioned once. Therefore the end product is not very tasty and dissatisfying to say the least. I am taking the liberty of enclosing the classic Cuban way of preparing the plantains. Naturally there are different versions of making green plantain chips, but they must all have that second stage of frying.

Sincerely yours, Olga huñez de Villavicencio

P.S. I enjoy reading your cooking column every week and the enthusiasm you put into it.

Fried Plantain Chips Recipe (Cuban Style)

Three green plantains slit open and peel removed with fingers. Set aside. Slice into approximately 1/2” slices. In a flat iron skillet, heat vegetable oil (about 1” deep), until hot. Add plantain slices to oil without crowding and fry until golden brown on both sides. Remove from oil with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Place the plantain between the plantain skins and press firmly to flatten. Return to oil that has been heated and fry until light brown. Drain on paper towels. Salt lightly and serve hot.

Response: Gracias Olga! Thanks for pointing this out. As they say in Cuba, “Me gusta el pantano pero no tanto!” Now if you can get us the recipe for the “media noche” sandwich, I would love to share that one with our readers. Hi to Mario!

Comment: Sure nice to see all the squid boats so close to shore. It adds an air of festivities to Monterey.

Q: Dear John:

We love your column and read it carefully each week. We have a question about table settings. We go to so many restaurants these days where a spoon is not included with the table setting. We feel that’s most unfortunate because those same restaurants serve delicious dinners with yummy sauces that need to be eaten with spoons. We either use our bread, or ask for a spoon, which we would prefer. What’s with this current trend? We don’t like it!

By the way, we really appreciate the Fisherman’s Wharf Wednesday night specials and have gone several times.

John and Nancy, Monterey

A: Well folks, here is another one you can blame on the food police. Lighter sauces or just less on the plate. However, all you have to do is ask. Clearly you are sophisticated diners who “know

how to hold a fork” as they say in Italy. Of course, using your bread works pretty well too. The underlying current trend, I believe, is everything in moderation (except steaks!). P.S. Thanks for making the locals a success!

Cooking of the lambs:

Ok Folks here’s the low down on the lamb. As you recall I did a test on lamb. I got it right this time. The four different products I tested were:

1 1/2 lb. boned, rolled, & tied domestic fresh, roasted at 300 degrees

12 lb. leg (with chime) domestic fresh, roasted 4 hrs at 280 degrees

New Zealand 2 1/2 lb. boned, rolled,& tied frozen, roasted 1 hour at 300 degrees

Australian 3 1/2 lb. boned, rolled, & tied frozen, roasted 1 1/2 hrs at 300 degrees

Forget the frozen product. When thawing, the blood starts leaking from the meat, which means you’re losing the juice and it will be dry even if cooked medium. I’m sure if these products were fresh they would be delicious. As for the fresh products both were fabulous. Stud with fresh garlic, rub with olive oil, salt, pepper and Sensational Seasoning™. Cook at low heat 280-300 degrees. Lower heat, but longer in the oven. This is hard on impatient eaters because it will perfume the house for hours with the smell of roasting lamb and garlic. You’ll get less shrinkage with slow roasting and the fat will caramelize which I happen to love. Last night I served them with a confit of garlic and cream. Place 3 cups of peeled garlic in a small pot, cover with olive oil and let simmer for 2 to 3 hours. You want just a few bubbles coming up from the bottom and lightly browned is ok. Strain and save the oil for dressings. Mash the garlic with a bit of heavy cream, salt and pepper. Use a dab of this heavily cream on the lamb. Also good were the cubed potatoes, carrots and onions roasted in a 450-degree oven.

Q: Recently at a party I served a stuffed leg of lamb, which I stuffed with dried fruit and farro. It was my understanding that it was a grain that was processed like hominy? That is to say, bleached with lime. Another guest said it was wheat berries. Can you clear it up?

Dana (da-da) N., Monterey

A: I had to research this one. Farro is an ancient and distant cousin of modern wheat and has been cultivated for centuries. In recent years it has become popular again. In Italy, where it is featured in the best restaurants, it’s available in three forms: pasta, whole grain, and pearlized which means that the hull and bran has been removed and has been

steamed and polished. Folks try the whole grain it’s much better for you. So to answer the question faro is a variety of wheat, either whole grain or pre-cooked, not like hominy - ok, da-da? Folks it is worth trying its nutty nutrients, more protein than wheat, high in fiber, also contains B complex vitamins, simple and complex carbohydrates.

Farro Salad Recipe:

300 g. (10.6 oz) Farro whole grain

100 g. (3.5 oz.) shrimp

1 bunch fresh arugula

250 g. (8.8 oz.) fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced

2 carrots

2 celery sticks

Bartolini’s extra-virgin olive oil

Oregano

Salt and pepper to taste

Boil the faro in a pot full of salted water for about 1 hour. In the meantime, finely chop the arugula, carrots and celery. Clean and boil the shrimp. Drain the faro, wait until it cools down and place in a bowl. Add the mozzarella, vegetables and shrimp. Season with salt and pepper as needed, sprinkle with oregano and finish with a generous helping of extra-virgin olive oil.

Advise to readers who transport deviled eggs. On Easter my wife and I were invited to dinner and were asked to bring deviled eggs. My lovely wife said she would take care of it so that I could relax and read the paper. When it was time to go I noticed she had cooked a lot of eggs, three dozen to be exact which means 36 eggs cut in half which is 72 halves, that is a lot of eggs! So she had them all on a giant oval shallow platter (the kind you put a large turkey on). I picked up the platter and shook it a bit and seemed pretty stable. Then I placed it in the back seat, leveled it

with stuff and gave it one more shake - no problem. Off we went. We came to the first stop sign and I looked over my shoulder as we came to a stop. To my horror all 72 eggs started to move forward like the charge of the light brigade - deviled eggs over the edge like a wave of water, toppling 4 and 5 at a time. Oh no! Then came the reverse reaction in the opposite direction all the eggs started going towards the back. Another dozen bit the dust and I mean the dust. In between the cracks in the seats - holy smokes! I pulled over slowly because now they were like a fluid mass,

reacting to my every move. I should have known better, my wife should have known better (she’s the smart one). It was a mess although we salvaged maybe 40 eggs. Now my car smells like egg salad sandwiches. Moral of the story: put a napkin down first or make sure you have high rims on the plate to keep those little rascals from fleeing.

For those of you that have asked for my trainers phone number: 915-6702, ask for Jason.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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