April 16, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

April 16, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q: Hey there Pisto,

Living in Portland, Oregon, Thai food is a big thing up here. I know you have traveled to Thailand and I am wondering if you are familiar with the so called “peasant’s dish” called Miang Kum, that involves spinach and bunch of condiments. It’s a very popular appetizer in Portland and I think it would fit in with your new Pacific Rim restaurant. One last note, I think you should put couches in the bar area, it could be such a great place for after-hour cocktails and maybe even the spinach dish! Have a wonderful day! Puffy face in Portland, Via e-mail

A: Hey Puffy, (sounds like an Italian nickname, like “Spats” or “Shooter”).

Yes I know this one, Puff. It consists of raw spinach and small bowls of roasted peanuts, diced fresh ginger, diced green onion, dried baby shrimp, diced fresh chili pepper, roasted shredded coconut, diced fresh lime, and plum sauce. What you do is grab a spinach leaf, smear on a little plum sauce and then add the condiments. Folks, the flavors are fantastic. Sweet, hot, salty and savory with great textures. Great tip! In fact I’m doing it tonight. Also, I like the couch idea!

Readers: What a treat we had Saturday afternoon. Sammy Hagar and family were in town and we ate down on Cannery Row at the Blue Moon. Sammy gave his seal of approval along with his beautiful wife Karri and family.

My cousin Patrick and his nice son Malcolm, who were visiting from France, joined us as well. We had a memorable lunch, which continued into dinner and - well, you get it I think - Rock on!

Dear John,

First of all, I have been meaning to e-mail you for weeks to tell you how much I love your column in the Herald. You have created a real “community of cooks” in this area, and I am so grateful for the added interest you have given to the Taste section. I read you first! I hope you continue to write your column as long as possible!

Emily W., Pebble Beach, Via e-mail

A: Thanks for the nice letter Emily. Folks, everyone likes a pat on the back once in a while. For me, I genuinely enjoy answering your questions each week (for nearly two years) and putting together new TV shows (over ten years) that hopefully entertain and inspire you to have fun cooking with your family, friends or just for yourself. Also, since Monterey’s Cookin’ has been airing nation-wide on GoodLife

cable for several years now, I have been able to bring the beauty of Monterey into millions of more households. What a pleasure! If you keep asking, I’ll keep writing.

Q: Dear Chef Pisto,

Are there any nutritional differences between cultivated mushrooms & wild mushroom? L. Balestreri, Monterey

A: I’ve checked with my buddy and world-renowned mushroom expert, David Arora, Here is what he says: Mushrooms are esteemed primarily for their flavor, but they can also be a healthy supplement to your diet. Each type has a different chemical composition, but in general their nutritive value compares favorably to that of most vegetables. They are rich in the B vitamins (including choline, which acts as a protective agent for your liver in case of mushroom poisoning), vitamins D and K.

Some are also high in vitamin A (e.g. the Chanterelle), and a few contain vitamin C. Mushrooms are also rich in minerals such as iron and copper and various trace elements. Like fruits, vegetables, and human beings, mushrooms are mostly water (85-95%). They have a low fat and carbohydrate content, and as a result, almost no calories - unless, of course, they are cooked in oil or butter. Some types are high in protein (especially Agaricus, Lepiota, and Calvatia species), and on a dry weight basis Boletus edulis contains more protein than any common vegetable except soybeans. However, some of the protein is indigestible, so mushrooms are not a viable substitute for meat or other high-protein foods. Cooking mushrooms maximizes their nutritive value by increasing their digestibility. Over-cooking them, however, removes some of their vitamins and most of the flavor. Thanks, David!

Q: Dear Chef Pisto,

Your description of the Easter ham sounds good, but how do you prepare the rye dough for wrapping the ham? Also how do you prepare fried greens and what greens do you use? We enjoy your column and your restaurants.

Thanks, Kathryne B., e-mail

A: Unless you have a commercial mixer at home try asking a local bakery to do it for you. You know what? The rye is a pain to make. When I’m in a hurry I just use the following recipe and it works fine. Rye Dough Recipe. In a large mixer, with a dough hook, make a batter of flour, warm water,

salt and 2 tablespoons of anise seed. Keep mixing this until it forms a soft dough. Let it rest for a couple of hours (it will roll better). Then roll it out evenly to 1/2 inch. You’ll need a lot of dough to wrap a 26 lb. ham. When your ready, start putting on pieces of the dough and sealing it with your finger tips dipped in water. Have you oven ready to go at 400 degrees. Once you have covered the ham completely, paint it with egg wash (egg and water mixed together). At this point you can use any extra dough to cut little designs or flowers to apply for decorations. Pop it into the oven quickly and leave at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. Then lower to 325 degrees and bake for 2 to 3 hours,

depending on size of ham. The smaller the ham the shorter the time (a 10 to 12 lb ham takes about an hour). This is a hit & miss dish and goes mostly by instinct.

As far as fried greens, I checked with Peter at Del Monte Produce and he recommends mustard, turnip, Swiss chard, broccoli rabe, escarole and endive as good side dishes. Just wash them well, chop fine and steam a bit. Then fry in garlic, hot pepper and olive oil.

By the way, some mashed sweet potatoes or yams would go great with the ham. Don’t forget to load it with butter.

Here’s wishing everyone a happy Easter holiday! My personal favorite glazed ham recipe, perfect for the occasion:

Baked Bourbon-Glazed Ham Recipe (for a 20-24 pounder)

1 1/2 cup bourbon whiskey

4 cups dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons dry mustard

1 1/2 cup whole cloves

4 navel oranges, peeled and sectioned

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place the ham fat side up on a rack, set in a shallow roasting pan large enough to hold the ham comfortably. Bake in the middle of

the oven, without basting, for two hours, or until the meat can be easily pierced with a fork. Insert a meat thermometer in the fleshiest part of the ham before baking it. It should register between 130 degrees and 140 degrees when the ham is done.

When the ham is cool enough to handle comfortably, cut away the rind with a sharp knife. Then score the ham by cutting deeply through the fat until you reach the meat, making the incisions 1/2 inch apart lengthwise and crosswise. Return the ham to the rack in the pan and raise the oven heat to 450 degrees.

With a pastry brush, paint the ham on all sides with 1/2 cup of the whiskey. Then combine the sugar and mustard and 1/4 cup of whiskey, and pat the mixture firmly into the scored fat. Stud the fat at the intersections or in the center of each diamond with a whole clove, and arrange the orange sections as decoratively as you can on the top of the ham with toothpicks or small skewers to secure them. Baste lightly with the drippings on the bottom of the pan and bake the ham undisturbed in the hot oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the sugar has melted and formed a brilliant glaze.

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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