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September 25, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

More from the Oregon trail: Fish and smokehouses. In a place called Garibaldi on the central Oregon coast we ran across some guys filleting monster lingcod and rockfish (8 - 12 pounds). Man, I remember the way it once was in Monterey - fish so plentiful that restaurants would have all-you-could-eat fish fries. Garibaldi, Oregon is also home to a major bay-shrimp fishery. $4 a pound for fresh, sweet, delicious tiny bay shrimp, so good nothing else is needed. I asked the fillet man why the town was named Garibaldi. He said that back around 1880, the postmaster was sometimes asked to name a new outpost. The local postmaster happened to be a fan of the great general Garibaldi of Italy, so logically, he named it that. Ah, these Italians... Can't seem to picture an Italian cowboy although I did recently read about one. Giovanni Martini was general Custer's personal aide and apparently the last white man to see him and his 210 men alive

(I wonder if their last meal was pasta). I can almost hear Giovanni say, "Ma, general, I think you make a big-a mistak-a! Leave those poor Indiano's alone." Speaking of Indians, the all-out winner of the smoked salmon tasting that we conducted up and down the coast, is not from Oregon at all, but it's my friend (and Indiano), Mayor Floyd from Angoon, Alaska. Floyd your salmon is the real deal. Folks, I know his supply is very limited but give him a call if you want to taste the authentic no-salt-brining smoked salmon. And say hi to his wife Lena for me (Mayor's office 907-788-3653). Floyd - master smoker, master hunting guide, master fishing guide and master bait-man.

Readers: Speaking of salmon, my friend, Ted Balestreri, called in with a recipe. He just returned from Seattle where he had this dish and said it was delicious.

Pan-smoked King Salmon Recipe

In a stainless steel pan, put a handful of wet oak chips evenly distributed around the bottom. Criss-cross four chopsticks on top of the chips to keep the salmon just above them. Rub two salmon filets with brown sugar, sea salt and ground white and black pepper and place them on the chopsticks. Place an over-sized cover on the pan and set the burner to medium. Get the wood chips smoking, not burning (no flame). After about 10 minutes, check it. It should still be raw. Now place it in a 350-degree oven for another 5 to 8 minutes - just until done. It should turn out juicy and lightly smoked - thanks Ted!

 

Q:   Dear John,

What is the difference between grass-fed beef and feedlot-fed beef and what do you serve at the Whaling Station? Consider you the King of Beef in Monterey.

newlyd@aol.com

A:   Thank you, thank you very much! This is my call on grass-fed beef. It is sweet and very good (though a bit gamey) and you should never cook it past
medium-rare because, being so lean, it gets tough. Feedlot or "corn-fed" beef is fed a special formula (usually high in corn) to fatten them up. If this special formula is fed over time, the fat is distributed evenly creating a beautiful marbling that will result in sweet, juicy and fork-tender beef. I am only interested in bringing in the

best-eating beef money can buy and my portions are extremely  generous compared to other "prime steakhouses" that I have visited. Now, for information that I have
hardly spoken about over the past several years. My corn-fed beef is exclusively from Omaha, Nebraska, the "heart of the corn-belt." Folks, the word "prime" is used liberally on menus these days but has a very specific meaning when certified as such by our USDA.  Barely 2% of all beef produced in the U.S. of A. will grade as "prime" by the USDA, so next time you see "prime" on a menu, be sure to ask your waiter what it means. By the way, I don't think any steak should be cooked past medium-rare.

Folks, we've been busy grilling Monterey sardines this past week. They are so good, however I'm finding that many people don't fully

appreciate this local culinary pleasure. Think about it, how many of you have even tasted a fresh  sardine? Just like anchovies, fresh sardines do not taste like canned and are not all that fishy. They are among the ocean's most nutritious fish, very high in omega 3 fatty acid. This is the "good fat" that the body needs but cannot produce itself. Check out www.omega-3info.com to find out more and, in the meantime, eat your sardines!

Readers: The most exciting item at the recent Tomato-fest, I'm told, was a tomato whiskey from Croatia. That's right, it's 86 proof and comes in a hand-painted bottle. I tried to get some but Merv, at Carmel's Nielson's Market, bought it all. This whiskey supposedly makes a fantastic old-fashioned.

 

Readers:  I just got off the plane from Fiji where I was busy filming shows for the upcoming season of Monterey's Cookin' Pisto Style. So much material, it will take me several weeks to share it with you. Today's item is a Fijian ceviche that knocked us out!

Photo by Cheryl Pisto

Known as "kokoda - (pronounced "kokonda"), it is prepared with a fine but firm white fish and is an excellent starter to a meal.
Fijian Ceviche Recipe
Yield 6-8 portions

1 1/2 pound white fish
1-cup lime or lemon juice
1 1/4 cups coconut cream or lighter alternative (see below)
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1 small chili, de-seeded and finely chopped
salt
grated carrot
tomato slices
lemon or lime slices
onion rings
chopped dill or chives

Remove the bones and skin from the fish and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Place in a bowl, cover with lime or lemon juice and leave for about 2 hours. Strain fish and discard juice. Mix coconut cram

with onion, chili and salt to taste, and pour over the fish. Garnish with carrot, tomato, lemon or lime slices, onion rings and chopped dill or chives. Ceviche - Fijian style is a simple and deeply satisfying dish that I can only imagine could be improved by substituting prawns and scallops for the fish.

Coconut Cream Recipe:  This essential ingredient of tropical cooking is best made from fresh nuts, but if not available, canned or powdered coconut cream provides an excellent substitute. Grate the flesh with a hand-grater or use a blender or food processor to combine 1 cup of coconut with 1 cup of warm water. Place in a cheesecloth and squeeze the cream into a bowl. For a thinner cream, repeat the process in the blender of bowl using the squeezed flesh and another cup of water. For very thick cream, use no water when blending. Bula!

 

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