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October 30, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q:   Dear John,   I know you would be jealous of me. I just returned from a vacation in Italy. When I was in the Cinque Terre, I went hiking every day, all day, for 3 days. I saw so many mushrooms when I was hiking.on paths that I know were not well trodden. In some parts, many of the locals were picking, but way up on the top of the steep hills.no one! I wish I knew more about mushrooms to know what I saw, and which ones to pick. They were just so abundant. It was hard to pass them up (I am a big mushroom fan). I'd be happy to hunt and gather for you if you want to send me back. Ciao!

Mary Skipworth - email

 

A:   Yes Mary, it's that time of the year to start thinking about mushrooms. Some fungi-related activities require planning, such as the ever-popular group forays where novices are led into the forest for their first hunt.  After all, who can forget their first time - is it ever that exciting again? For me the real thrill is the day after the first or second good rain, when I can just about hear those porcinis popping.

I swear folks; I can see those little mounds of pine needles from my car at 60 miles an hour (keep this in mind if you try to follow me, you know - frequent and sudden stops). Whether in Europe, or merely on a harmless trespass into some future friend's tree-studded backyard, caution is the word of the day. If you are not an expert, or are not in the company of one, do not pick wild mushrooms! Even the simple handling of some toxic varieties can cause problems. It won't be long now before we see news reports of some unfortunate (and hungry) shroom aficionado, turning up in the emergency room after eating something that looked just like the ones their mother picked in the old country. Get the message? This is serious business. Now for some recipes.

 

In honor of my dear friend Julia Child's recent 90th birthday, here is one of her mushrooms favorites. This is a simple and tasty appetizer for two.

Julia's Child's Mushrooms Recipe

1/2 pound king bolete (porcini) mushroom caps, 1/4-inch slices, stems
chopped
3 tablespoons Italian flat-leaf parsley (leaves only) chopped
3 cups extra-virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Heat a large skillet filled with 2 3/4 cups of olive oil until simmering. Add sliced mushroom caps to skillet and fry over medium heat for 10-12 minutes, turning occasionally. Mushrooms should be crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Remove mushrooms and place on paper towels to drain, then set aside. Place stems in a second skillet. Add remaining olive oil and sauté stems over medium heat. Stems are done when they are lightly brown. Place on paper towels to absorb oil. Lightly season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Place sautéed caps on serving platter; sprinkle stems over caps, and serve.

 

Readers:   By the time you read this, I will be back home in Monterey. Spending time in Europe, I am reminded of the great side dishes that I often encountered dining with locals. Most meals are served family-style with a refreshing lack of formality. One of my favorites, especially this time of year, is the hearty combination of potatoes and mushrooms. This recipe features dried morel mushrooms and goes well with grilled meats, chicken or veggies.

Pisto's Mushroom Potatoes Recipe

Serves 4

3 baking potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces
3 oz. dried Morels

6 baby artichokes
1/2-cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 onion, chopped
2 shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and quartered
1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly cracked
3 sprigs Italian flat leaf parsley
2 lemons

Reconstitute morels in warm water for 20 minutes.

Prepare baby artichokes by cutting off stalks and top 15% of leaves. Remove outer leaves until you get onto, yellow leaves. Quarter artichokes and place in bowl with juice of one lemon and water to cover. With baby artichokes, it is not necessary to remove the cores.
In a large skillet, add 1/2-cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons butter, potatoes, 3/4 of the chopped onions, 4 artichokes, 1 shallot and sauté over high heat for 10-15 minutes, turning occasionally. To tell if done, check thickest part of potatoes, which should be easily pierced with a fork or knife tip. When almost done, add tomatoes. Remove from heat.

Heat a small skillet coated with olive oil, over medium heat. Add garlic, black pepper, mushrooms, remaining shallots, onions, artichokes and butter. Sauté for 6-8 minutes.

Serve on large platter, with mushrooms poured over potatoes. Garnish with sprigs of parsley and quartered lemon.

 

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in Monterey, California, click here.

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