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October 23, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Readers:   Our third week in Croatia and I am really getting excited. Last night we dined at a genuine Croatian steakhouse in Dubrovnic. The quality of the beef is actually quite good - if you stick with the filet. Most other cuts are sliced very thin and don't resemble what we are used to. Of course you have to remember that they cater mostly to European tourists and, come on folks, what do they know about good beef? As any red-blooded American knows, you simply can't cook up a really great, blood-rare steak if it's less than an inch and a half thick. I'll say it again - GOD BLESS AMERICA!  The most interesting meal so far was in a 17th century castle and was all seafood, the real local specialty - recipes to follow.

Another observation:  these Mediterranean's consider sardines to be basically a garbage fish. With all of my recent efforts to bring back this most nutritious fish in the sea, and historic king of Monterey Bay, they don't seem to get it either. I find it particularly interesting because so many European tourists have been ordering them in my restaurants lately.
Q:    Dear Chef Pisto,  We customarily tip for restaurant service, more when it is good, less when is it poor. But what can we do when the quality of the meal is poor? We do not customarily tip the chef, right? How does the chef get feedback from his customers? Do we just not return to the restaurant anymore if the food quality is poor?   Dale K. - Carmel

A:  Dale, this an age-old question - what is more important, food or service? It can be a hotly debated subject. Some feel that the food is most important; after all, what are we going to a restaurant for if not for the promise of some good food? Others believe service is what brings them back. These folks value, most of all, a talented staff that deliver the goods. I believe that you cannot have one without the other. Good food, delivered in a friendly, efficient and timely manner is the basic package. As to your question, it depends on the extent of the food problems and any (if any) effort on the part of the restaurant staff to satisfy you before you leave. As I have said here before, you must tell someone that you are not happy.
Give them a chance to make it right (we're all human), and then judge the results. This goes well beyond the issue of tipping the chef or not. The willingness of a restaurant to satisfy you is what makes the difference if you are disappointed. So Dale, speak up and see what happens. If no one is listening, believe me, there are a lot more restaurants out there waiting for the opportunity to serve you.

Q: Dear John,

I love to steam artichokes. Your dip is the best I have found for serving with them. Would you be willing to share your recipe? Is it a genuine mayonnaise or an aioli?

Ashton R. - Marina

A: My favorite dip for artichokes or most any antipasto item, is a genuine garlic mayonnaise, or "aioli". This one of my favorite stand-bys and it can be made up in advance and kept in the fridge. It also makes a great sandwich spread - try it on your grilled burger.

 

Pisto's Garlic Mayonnaise Recipe   Makes one cup

2 eggs
1 tsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. red wine vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 tsp. Dried mustard (Coleman's)
2 garlic cloves (or more if you dare)
1/2 tsp. tomato paste
pinch of saffron
salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

Place eggs, salt and pepper, lemon juice, vinegar and dried mustard in a food processor. Process for 8 seconds. With machine running, slowly drizzle oil into mixture. Press garlic. Add garlic, tomato paste and saffron to mixture. Blend until thick. Chill for 1 hour.

Q:   Dear Chef Pisto,   I have been interested in a classic antipasto item known as "bruschetta." I have seen it on a lot of menus lately but am not sure what the classic version is or even how to pronounce it. Can you help me?   J. Blake - Monterey

A:   Hey J.B., this is a great appetizer item. The classic "broo·sket?·ah" is simply toasted bread with olive oil and a topping. The best one this time of year is a classic that takes advantage of the final great tomatoes of the season. Try this one with a delicious white wine like Pavona's "Chardonnay Blanc." This interesting Monterey County wine is a blend of chardonnay and pinot blanc and has just the right fruit and acidity for this dish.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Bruschetta Recipe - serves 6-8

1 loaf of day-old Italian bread
4 ripe tomatoes
4 large garlic cloves
1/4 bunch fresh basil
olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Chop ripe tomatoes into small, 1/2-inch pieces with a sharp knife. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper.

Press two garlic cloves into a small mixing bowl and add tomatoes. Chop basil leaves coarsely and sprinkle onto tomatoes. Pour 1 tsp. olive oil into tomato-garlic mixture.

Pre-heat stovetop grill over high heat. Cut bread into thin slices. Brush bread with olive oil on both sides, then toast bread on both sides.

Remove bread from grill and rub the remaining whole garlic cloves (cut in half) over the toasted bread. Place bread on large serving platter. Spoon tomato mixture over bread and serve. You can substitute sautéed mushrooms, smoked salmon or whatever you want (as long as it includes garlic). It's a mini-European vacation!

 

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