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October 16, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q:   Dear Chef Pisto,  

I saw you on GoodLife TV today with William Rice where you made coleslaw with blue cheese and a granny smith apple. Where can I get that recipe

Deb - via email

A I'm glad you mentioned Bill Rice, my long time friend and nationally recognized food and wine columnist for the Chicago Tribune. Bill appeared on Monterey's Cookin' in part to promote his book that had just come out ("Steak Lover's Cookbook"), and to celebrate one of our shared passions - prime beef steaks and great side dishes. The dish you are asking about is a slight variation of a recipe from his book. It is one of our favorites with steak but is also a terrific compliment to many dishes.

Apple-Bleu Cheese Coleslaw Recipe
1/2 small head of green cabbage, outer leaves removed
1 firm granny smith (or any tart-tasting) green apple
1/2-cup chopped onion
2 tablespoons blue cheese, softened (or Stilton or Roquefort)
1/2-teaspoon ground allspice
salt
1/4-teaspoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2-tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4-cup vegetable oil
Cut the cabbage in quarters. Remove and discard the core. Shave the cabbage crosswise into thin strips and chop coarsely. You should have about 4 cups. Wash, but do not peel, the apple. Cut it in half, remove and discard the core, then cut the apple into 1/2-inch cubes. Combine the cabbage, apple and onion in a bowl.

Place the bleu cheese in a small bowl. Add the allspice, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and dry mustard. Using a whisk, or fork, stir in the vinegar and Worcestershire. Whisk in the oil.

Pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture and toss well. Cover the surface tightly with plastic wrap, refrigerate and let mellow for about an hour. Add salt to taste, toss the slaw again and serve.

 

Q:   Dear John,  I'm in love with your marinated anchovies at the Whaling Station. Where can I get some and how do you prepare them? Do you soak them like cod? Also, when will you have a mushroom class?   Dr. Dave Huntley - Monterey

A Hey Doc;  cod?  Anchovies?  Mushrooms?!  Now you're tickling my funny bone!  First, let me tell you - these anchovies are labor-intensive.

I use only our fresh, local product and each one is filleted by hand (believe it or not, most people don't want these little silver beauties for much else than bait).  After cleaning, I pickle them, according to ancient Sicilian tradition, for 40 days and nights, then serve them simply with a drizzle of good olive oil.  By the way, if you haven't tried the fried anchovies, you are missing another amazing treat.  Just like sardines, when fresh anchovies are cooked on high heat, the flesh takes on a pale color and has a very mild flavor. I promise you, they are habit-forming.

In regards to mushrooms, I am just waiting for the first (or better yet, second) rain of the season to ignite this annual passion.  I never know how I am going to feel about classes - too many people know all of my favorite spots already (Right Tony and Bobby?) - but I'll let you know.

Q:   Dear Chef Pisto,   I would like to know if it would be possible to arrange to have some of your clam chowder shipped to Pennsylvania? Please let me know - I can't get any real chowder here.  Philadelphia - via email

A No. On second thought, how much are you willing to spend? Actually folks, this got me thinking. As most of you know, restaurants usually serve clam chowder on Fridays. Well, guess what? Every restaurant on the Wharf serves everyone's favorite soup every day. Look for Fisherman's Wharf's annual Chowder Fest, coming up in March, but why wait? Or you could go out looking for a decent Philly cheese steak.

Readers:  This column is coming to you this week from Croatia, land of the world's largest truffles. I'm here filming more shows (after just finishing up in Fiji) for the 2003 Monterey's Cookin Pisto Style season, and I'm just getting warmed up. Thanks to email, I can, not only send you this column from deep inside Europe, but also read and respond to your letters. This month, marks the one-year anniversary of the beginning of "Ask the Chef" and I really enjoy bringing it to you. Please continue to write in with questions and, at this time, I am especially interested in comments about the column itself. Just as with my TV show, I want to deliver an interesting mix of travel, cooking and stories.

In the meantime, check out Croatia on an atlas. Just across the Adriatic Sea from Italy, Croatia boasts over 1,000 islands, many of them tourist destinations, and it is said that you will see islands from anywhere along its Mediterranean coastline. I am anxious to learn more about this country and its traditions (both culinary and otherwise), and to share the best of it all with you here and in my restaurants. See you soon!

 

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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