Q:
Dear Chef Pisto, I love
sweetbreads but have a hard time finding them nowadays. Do you know of
any place serving them or how I might prepare them myself?
Ron A. - Monterey
A: Well Ronnie,
unfortunately the food police have condemned this one. It is so unfair
how things get labeled as bad for you, many times only to be reversed
later (someone should police the food police). The best I've tasted
recently was at Carmel's Chez Felix where chef-owner Jean-Louie and his
wonderful wife Madeline, have been serving up authentic French cooking
for decades. Sweetbreads is another name for the thymus gland, typically
lamb or veal, and are delicious barbecued or fried crispy. Jean-Louie
cooks them in cream with mushrooms - very good! By the way, Jean-Louis
is without a doubt one of the most colorful guys around and has a great
sense of humor. For instance, a couple of years ago, my wife, my crew
and I were caught in the middle of a coup in a foreign country and word
got out that we were possibly in danger.
People back home were worried, then relieved when we arrive home
unharmed. Upon our return we had dinner at Chez Felix. Jean-Louie came
out to say that, during my ordeal, he passed the
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hat around Carmel for my
ransom, but was only able to raise 38 cents. Ah, it's nice to be loved.
Pisto's
Barbecued Sweetbreads
Recipe
Ask your butcher for some nice veal sweetbreads - they are the best.
Trim the silver and poach the sweetbreads in water with a little salt
and vinegar for 45 minutes. Peel off the outer membrane and break the
meat into pieces about the size of an egg. Skewer them alternating with
slices of onions and bay leaf. Brush with olive oil (or butter) then
season with salt and pepper. Grill till crisp on the outside, being
careful not to burn them. They cook pretty fast. Finish with a garlic
vinaigrette - fantastic!
Readers: Charlie at
Do Re Mi Records in Carmel, asked me for some dessert pizza ideas. This
is a fun way to end a meal with friends and kids really get into it.
Flatten your dough so it is thin. Cook it slightly; spread some
sweetened sour cream on the crust, and then add thinly sliced apples,
berries, bananas - whatever you like, and bake until brown. Important
tip: toss your fruit
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in cinnamon-sugar or brown
sugar before placing on the pizza.
Another tip:
Pick up the newest, hottest music to come around in years -
Buddha-Bar in Paris. It will change your life!
Readers: I just talked to
daughter # 4, who just started her first year away at college in the
land of the razor clams. She was very excited to report that she was the
first to change her sheets (since school began in September). Her three
roommates are still holding out. All I can say is - way to go girls!
Your mothers would be proud. Speaking of razor clams (my latest
obsession), I found a source for the best and freshest right off of
their favorite beach. I have been busy learning how the natives prepare them and working on my own
methods. These incredible clams are just now coming into season so watch
for them to appear soon, along with my recipes.

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