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October 9, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q:   Dear Chef Pisto,   I love sweetbreads but have a hard time finding them nowadays. Do you know of any place serving them or how I might prepare them myself?  Ron A. - Monterey


A Well Ronnie, unfortunately the food police have condemned this one. It is so unfair how things get labeled as bad for you, many times only to be reversed later (someone should police the food police). The best I've tasted recently was at Carmel's Chez Felix where chef-owner Jean-Louie and his wonderful wife Madeline, have been serving up authentic French cooking for decades. Sweetbreads is another name for the thymus gland, typically lamb or veal, and are delicious barbecued or fried crispy. Jean-Louie cooks them in cream with mushrooms - very good! By the way, Jean-Louis is without a doubt one of the most colorful guys around and has a great sense of humor. For instance, a couple of years ago, my wife, my crew and I were caught in the middle of a coup in a foreign country and word got out that we were possibly in danger. People back home were worried, then relieved when we arrive home unharmed. Upon our return we had dinner at Chez Felix. Jean-Louie came out to say that, during my ordeal, he passed the

hat around Carmel for my ransom, but was only able to raise 38 cents. Ah, it's nice to be loved.

Pisto's Barbecued Sweetbreads Recipe

Ask your butcher for some nice veal sweetbreads - they are the best.

Trim the silver and poach the sweetbreads in water with a little salt and vinegar for 45 minutes. Peel off the outer membrane and break the meat into pieces about the size of an egg. Skewer them alternating with slices of onions and bay leaf. Brush with olive oil (or butter) then season with salt and pepper. Grill till crisp on the outside, being careful not to burn them. They cook pretty fast. Finish with a garlic vinaigrette - fantastic!

Readers: Charlie at Do Re Mi Records in Carmel, asked me for some dessert pizza ideas. This is a fun way to end a meal with friends and kids really get into it. Flatten your dough so it is thin. Cook it slightly; spread some sweetened sour cream on the crust, and then add thinly sliced apples, berries, bananas - whatever you like, and bake until brown. Important tip: toss your fruit

in cinnamon-sugar or brown sugar before placing on the pizza.  Another tip:   Pick up the newest, hottest music to come around in years - Buddha-Bar in Paris. It will change your life!

Readers:  I just talked to daughter # 4, who just started her first year away at college in the land of the razor clams. She was very excited to report that she was the first to change her sheets (since school began in September). Her three roommates are still holding out. All I can say is - way to go girls! Your mothers would be proud. Speaking of razor clams (my latest obsession), I found a source for the best and freshest right off of their favorite beach.  I have been busy learning how the natives prepare them and working on my own methods. These incredible clams are just now coming into season so watch for them to appear soon, along with my recipes.

 

Q:   Dear John,

I just enjoyed a calamari steak at a Japanese restaurant, and would like to try making one myself. Do you have any good recipes? Also, how long should I cook my calamari steak and how do I know when it is done? Thanks.

Via e-mail

A First of all, was it Monterey squid or Mexican squid? Monterey is thin with a particular flavor all it's own. Mexican squid is thicker and has a completely different flavor. In any event, most Japanese restaurants use a breading called "panko" that is available in most stores and fries up very crispy. Use a light vegetable oil and get it good and hot. Dredge your calamari in flour, then dip in beaten eggs (cut with a little water) and finally in the

panko - careful not to make it too thick. Ready to fry, now - don't overcook it! You will find that most Japanese restaurants use the Mexican squid; personally I think ours is better. One of my restaurants on the wharf (starts with an "A") has long celebrated the versatility of our Monterey squid and nowhere will you find it prepared more ways. Stuffed, marinated, grilled, "Siciliano" style, baked, barbecued and, of course, fried - uh oh, I'm getting hungry.

Q:   Hi John,
I'm a huge fan of Sammy Hagar (and you, of course!). I totally enjoyed seeing Sammy on your show and was wondering, is he going to be back again anytime soon? I also heard he sometimes is a guest bartender at the Whaling Station. Keep up the good work!

Love, Jeanette Akers - Salinas

A Well Jeanette, you're in luck. There are five shows with Sammy coming up. My new season starts this coming January and I have some fabulous shows already in the can! One show does in fact feature Sammy standing in as bartender at The Station, the night we served "Waboritas" to everyone in the house. Keep watching!

 

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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