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November 20, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Dear John,   I recently attended a function at the Monterey Beach Resort for the Monterey County Association of Realtors, and tasted a pulled-pork sandwich. It was delicious. What is it exactly and how do you make it?  Mrs. Stugozo

A:   Well Mrs. Stugozo, this happens to be one of my favorite sandwiches and is really quite easy to make. All you need is to know someone from east Texas, so I called Bobby V. and he gave me this
R
ecipe for Pulled-Pork Sandwich
:
Start with one heavily seasoned, 4 or 5 pound pork butt. Wrap it in clear plastic wrap and store in the fridge for two days. Place in a smoker at 180 degrees for 2 hours, then wrap in foil, place in a roasting pan and cook for another 6 hours in the oven at 200 degrees. Shred with a fork and add back any juices and seasonings from the pan, then pour on a bit of vinegar-based barbecue sauce. Toss well, then pile it on top of the softest white bread you can find and serve with a dill pickle, hot sauce, raw onion, and - watch out!

Readers:   It's really nice when people stop by my office just to say hi. Recently, Ben and Patty Miller were visiting from Peoria, Ill., where they are regular viewers of Monterey's Cookin'. After watching the show about the Napa Wine Train, they decided to come out west and give it a try and see our beautiful Monterey.

Hunting for truffles in Croatia:   We were taken to a little village that calls itself the truffle capital of the world. We headed out at 9 am with our guide Guido and his two truffle dogs, Blackie and Rusty. People usually associate pigs with truffle hunting, but most of the world's truffle hunters now use dogs.

Think of it, if someone is heading out into the woods with a pig, it's pretty obvious what they are up to, isn't it? The scent of truffles is similar to pig pheromones, which greatly excites them. Dogs can be trained to find this scent. According to Guido, there were about 1200 hunters in the local area. All around us we heard dogs barking like crazy. The hills were alive with the sound of barking! It had been raining and after about 35 minutes of going through the muck and mud, with our entourage of 10 people, Blackie started barking and digging like mad. Immediately, Guido gently pushed him aside, started digging with his hands and - low and behold - he showed us a small rusty rock, which he identified as a white truffle. Blackie was rewarded with a small piece of truffle - Guido said the dogs love them. By now, we have had enough of hunting; everyone was covered with sticky mud from the knees down (the girls were especially thrilled).

 

 

We made it back to Guido's house and his mother showed us her find for the morning, about 100 grams. We rolled some film, said goodbye and headed for the truffle fair.



The truffles were to be displayed to customers at precisely 12 o'clock. A large tent had been put up for this purpose and everyone was waiting. The locals were standing around looking at all the city folk and foreigners and, of course, checking out the ladies.

Once things got started, we were promised an interview with the king of truffles, Gian Carlo Zigante, but he was too busy.   Within an hour, the place was jamming. Busloads of Italians came pouring in - folks, this is serious stuff! white and black truffles were on the table and a buying frenzy started. Soon, I was swept up in the excitement and, after elbowing my way up front, was soon picking up truffles and smelling them. Oh man, these were some good smelling truffles! Before I knew it, I had bought three white truffles and one black, all goose egg-sized, for a couple of hundred dollars. In Italy, these would have cost at least a thousand. What a deal!  Gian Carlo still couldn't see us so we retreated to a small café across the street and became spectators. We were handed small menu cards, which listed "truffles with eggs, truffles with pasta, truffles and gnocchi, truffles with veal."  We were in the middle of the richest truffle country in the world and I wasn't waiting for anyone.
I ordered a round of scrambled eggs and truffles for everyone, and a carafe of house wine. Within 15 minutes, the whole town was packed and so was the restaurant.  Our order arrived and it looked like scrambled eggs with large ants all over the top. The locals prefer to grate their truffles rather than shave them - interesting. That smell, oh, that smell! The unforgettable bouquet of leeks, garlic, shallots and green onions. I took one bite and, OH MY GOD! This is what I've been looking for. The eggs were from genuine free-range Croatian chickens and, oh, what flavor. Folks, the combination of eggs and truffles is made in heaven. Like caviar and Champagne or Prime beef and good red wine. Sadly, my research into the most flavorful American eggs revealed the following truth: Our eggs have been systematically developed to be as middle of the road (taste-wise) as possible. More on the truffle fair next week - I happen to have a stash of Croatian truffles - see you later.

 

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