May 15, 2002 Ask the Chef - John Pisto - Monterey's Cookin' Pisto Style

May 15, 2002 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q: Dear John, We recently had "high tea" at the St. Francis Hotel in San Francisco. What a delightful way to spend the afternoon. I am planning to host one myself, can you help? E-mail

A: Just by coincidence, I also had the tea service in Frisco about two months ago. It was fun and the food was very good. For those of you that have never experienced high tea, let me describe it. We started with mini sandwiches, cheeses and scones, then pastries and of course a fabulous selection of premium teas. A lot of people were also drinking champagne or cocktails and a combo was playing light jazz. Quite civilized, I must say. I don't think it is being done anywhere locally, but I do know of an English chef, by the name of Karen Murray, who will serve you high tea in your home. She supplies everything, including antique china and a full selection of authentic English menu items such as: chicken, fennel and cranberry salad mini sandwiches, open-faced smoked salmon and dill on pumpernickel, sundried tomato,

bacon & cream cheese harlequins, lemon curd scones with cream and preserves. Sound good folks? Call 373-3953 and ask for Karen.

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Thought of the day from that great Sicilian philosopher, Reginald Aliotti: "People that throw roses, receive roses."

Q: Dear John, Love your column, it's the best thing about the paper. I would like to have an authentic ravioli recipe - can you help? J. Gatzo - Prunedale

A: Dear Mr. or Mrs. Gatzo, I received your e-mail while talking to a friend of mine by the name of Phil Coniglio. Phil's family contains many talented cooks.

His name might be familiar because for years they ran a fabulous place in Carmel called Mediterranean Market. What a great place! Phil tells me his grandmother, Mary Coniglio, at 99 years young, still makes her raviolis using the recipe below. If the brains bother you, use pork instead, but please try the original. Speaking of brains, I know some people who could use a few more, including myself. So folks, be adventurous, live a little and try something different. I remember my mother - God bless her - cooking veal brains especially for my dad, who loved them and I recall them being quite delicious. She would soak and trim them up a bit then par-boil them in salted water. Then she would divide them into pieces about the size of an egg, dip in flour, egg wash and bread crumbs and brown them in olive oil. Served with fresh lemon and Carlo Rossi wine in a gallon jug - folks, we're talking classic!

Ravioli Cervella Recipe

Pasta:

3 Cups flour

3 eggs beaten

1 Tbs. Olive oil

Enough warm water to make medium soft dough.

Make a well in the flour; drop egg and oil into it. Gather into small ball and knead until satiny smooth.

Filling:

1 lb. Ground round

1 package brains (optional)

1 bunch spinach washed, cooked, chopped, and squeezed dry

1 bunch Swiss chard washed, cooked, chopped, squeezed dry

1 finely chopped onion

1 tsp. Each of oregano, basil and rosemary

1 finely chopped garlic clove

2 Tbs. Fine breadcrumbs

2 eggs beaten

1 Cup Parmesan cheese or more if needed

Salt, pepper, sugar to taste

Mix above ingredients well. Be sure all ingredients in the filling are finely chopped.

Assemble:

Sprinkle board with flour as needed for rolling. Roll dough out to desired thickness (thinner is better). Spread filling on half of the dough. Fold the remaining dough over the filling. Roll over dough and filling with ravioli designer and cut with ravioli cutter. If freezing, place raviolis in a box and sprinkle with flour. Use waxed paper between layers.

Cook:

Drop raviolis into salted boiling water. Do not stir until they come to the top. Cook 20-30 minutes (out of the freezer). Serve with red sauce.

Beach party revisited: Last week, I told you about some great beach parties. My earliest recollections are of my parents' parties which consisted of sea urchins (raw of course), Italian bread, home-baked chicken, olives, salted salmon, my mom's famous baked pasta with eggplant, beef "braciola" (flank steak stuffed with salami, eggs and seasoned breadcrumbs then rolled, tied, cooked in the tomato sauce, sliced and layered in the

pasta), meatballs, hard boiled egg and lots of grated cheese. Dessert was fresh fruit, Italian biscotti, cookies and melon. Best of all, these family gatherings would include the old grandparents and the littlest of children. With luck we would even have accordion and clarinet music compliments of Sal Mercurio, Mike Marotta or Johnny Catalano. Oh, and by the way, lots of homemade red wine and soft drinks for the kids - Ahh, the good old days!

Overheard from my office window at 11:30 AM, from Mac and the Boys to some skateboarding youths on the rec trail below: "Hey! You want to keep it down - we're trying to get some sleep here, okay?" Ah, spoken like a true man of leisure!

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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