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March 26, 2002          ...       Ask the Chef                ...          John Pisto

Q:   Dear Chef Pisto, do you have a simple recipe for cheese pizza that I could make?   Hudson Karges, Age 10

A:  Well Hudson, if you're open to trying something a little different, this could work for you and your parents would like it too. This method uses day-old sweet French bread. Have your mom make a simple tomato sauce with a lot of sliced onion in it (it should be on the sweet side) and add some dried oregano at the end. Slice the bread in half lengthwise and spoon on the sauce (medium to heavy, as you like). Top with freshly grated cheese and seasoned breadcrumbs, place on a sheet pan and bake until crunchy and slightly brown. It’s really simple once you get the hang of it. Good luck, buddy.

Readers: The letters keep on coming. Wharf parking is an issue that a lot of people have an opinion about, and the opinions expressed are remarkably consistent: “We want free parking!. Last week I told you about the city's "free parking for residents" program. I received mail similar to the letter to the editor in Monday's, paper calling "free" parking for $10 "idiotic". I have also received many letters from local (peninsula-wide) seniors and it made me think. Today there is so much emphasis on improving access yet, over my lifetime the wharf has become less and less accessible. When I was a boy, I would play on the beach, before the marina was built. My father's tailor shop was nearby, and the wharf was an extension of downtown. But no more. Due to the efforts of the State of California, which controls the entrance to the wharf, and the city of Monterey, the wharf has been cut off from the rest of town. Folks, it's time to give something back. Not only should peninsula residents be allowed two hours free parking when visiting the wharf, they should also be shuttled to and from the wharf parking lot in the name of improved access. It's the modern thing to do.
Q:  Dear Chef, I am interested in the recipe for short ribs I saw on your TV show last week.

A:  I used beef short ribs but country spareribs, thick cut with the bone, works great too. Season ribs with salt and pepper and sauté in butter and olive oil - brown nicely. Remove from pan, and then add carrots, celery, onion, garlic, olives, parsley, a bit of fresh thyme and dried chestnuts (optional). Sauté a bit then put the ribs back in. Top off with a good quality red wine (don’t use a sweet cheap red, remember, always cook with a wine that you would drink). Bring to a boil, cover and turn heat down to medium low. Stir occasionally so nothing sticks. Check in about 1 hour and 15 minutes. The meat should fall off the bone and will be absolutely succulent. Serve with rice, polenta, a wide pasta or you could add potatoes, turnips or rutabagas when you first add the vegetables. By the way, I pulled the show you saw because Johnny Rivers, my guest that day, wasn’t very enthusiastic. I think the tongue recipes got to him - he’s a vegetarian.

 

Q:  Dear Mr. Pisto, As an Italian-American, I eat pasta often and suffer from acid reflux.   Lee V. - Carmel

A:   Ah, Mr. Lee, acid reflux, better known as "acido", let's tackle that one first. If you watch a lot of movies about New York, you'd know Italians have a saying: "you either get acido or you can give it." Acid reflux, to my understanding, is caused mainly by overeating at night and then laying down (couching it). Try eating a smaller meal at dinnertime; don’t lay down so quick and go easy on the wine. Also, taste the tomatoes. If they are not sweet enough, add sugar, as this will also help your stomach. Here is a good recipe using fresh Roma tomatoes.
Roma Tomatoes Recipe
For 1 pound of pasta:
Start with four pounds of ripe Romas. Leave them out until they are nicely ripe and soft. Dice them with a very sharp knife. Sauté a bit of garlic and one medium onion in extra virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of crushed red pepper and salt and pepper.

Add the chopped tomatoes and cook until the water disappears and starts to make a sauce. This should take 20 to 30 minutes. Have your water already boiling, with salt, for cooking linguine. Now the good part. After the sauce is cooked, use a garlic press to add 3 cloves of fresh garlic - that's right folks, fresh garlic! Drain the pasta; saving a small amount of pasta water and add to the sauce. Toss well with good-quality, freshly grated Romano cheese - the sharper the better. Finally, toss in a handful of fresh chopped basil and, one last thing, make sure everyone in the house eats this one. Ah, the smell of fresh garlic!

Readers:  I promised to share more of the recipes for my three-course salmon promotion. Today, one of my favorites, the seared salmon filet with fresh tarragon and tomato coulis recipe. As usual we sear the salmon in a hot pan until slightly crusted, then finish cooking it in the oven. This teaming of fresh tarragon and tomatoes (coulis) has its roots in France.

The sauce is made by combining a little butter, white wine, garlic, fish stock, finely diced Roma tomatoes (skinned and de-seeded), salt & pepper and, finally, chopped fresh tarragon. Spoon the sauce onto a plate. Place the salmon filet on top and serve. The response to this promotion, featuring salmon prepared your choice of four ways, soup or salad and dessert for $15.95, has been so strong that it is now available all day, every day (even this Easter Sunday) at Abalonetti Seafood, Domenico's on the Wharf and Paradiso. Give it at try.

Readers:   Last night I experienced "Boston butt", also known as rolled (and tied) pork shoulder or, when processed, a picnic ham. What a versatile cut. I can’t wait to share these new recipes now that barbecue season is here. Stay tuned!

 

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in Monterey, California, click here.

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