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March 12, 2002        ...        Ask the Chef             ...             John Pisto
Q:   When you cook a thick steak, after searing on the outside, at what temperature do you finish cooking it and how do you test for doneness?    Lynn Hohler - Pleasanton

A:    You're talking about my favorite method of cooking a steak by first searing it in a hot pan and then finishing it in the oven. The oven temperature that I use is about 400 degrees. You must be very careful because after removing from the pan, the meat is still cooking. Unless you know how to test with touching and pressure on the meat or have a digital meat thermometer, just simply make a small cut in the corner and look inside. I'm talking about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch slit. It will cook rather quickly so stay on top of it.
Green peppercorn steak - Serves 2 - 1/2 cup of beef stock or from bouillon cubes, 1/4 cup finely chopped shallots, 1/4 cup brandy, 1/4 cup green peppercorns in brine, 1/4 cup heavy cream, 1 tsp. butter. De-glaze pan (used to sear steak) with bouillon to start sauce. Add shallots and stir. Add brandy and green peppercorns with brine and stir. Add cream and stir until sauce thickens. Finally, add butter and stir until melted. Slice steak (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) at an angle. Place on plates, pour sauce over meat and serve.

Readers:  As of Monday, I received several hundred letters answering my question as to why locals don’t visit the wharf. Folks, you have spoken and been heard! Before I get into that, let me tell you about this past Sunday. What an amazing turnout for the annual Fisherman's Wharf Clam Chowder Festival.
Wall-to-wall people and all very, very nice. I thought my giant seafood risotto turned out okay but needed more salt. Honestly it was a lot of work. After 2 1/2 hours of non-stop stirring in the sun, I was wiped out and left after I finished dishing it up. The staggering amount of ingredients included 40 pounds of assorted seafood, 15 gallons of fish stock, 5 gallons of chopped onions, 2 quarts of minced garlic, 3 quarts chopped parsley and 35 pounds of rice. Don’t try this at home. Next time I'll have a better idea of how to cook and serve it. Thank you all so much for coming down and saying hello.

P.S. I really want to thank Nino and Sal for helping serve. Boy, I never realized they were such talented carnies - Hubba, Hubba, have we got cannolis!

 

Locals and The Wharf:  Whew! Your response has been overwhelming!  While I'm busy getting several hundred cookbooks ready to send out, let me share a summary of the comments received. The number one issue in 99% of the letters - PARKING! Specifically, the inconvenience and cost. My hope now is that the City will respond with some help. How about 2 hours free parking with validation, just for locals?  As for what I'm doing, I have lowered prices at Abalonetti and Domenico's and, along with our popular "lobster four ways" for $19.95, tonight we are rolling out a new salmon promotion.  Included: 1) choice of clam chowder or Sicilian bread salad, 2) entrée featuring a half-pound of fresh salmon filet prepared one of four ways, and 3) real Italian cannoli all for $15.95. This local's special will be available at Abalonetti, Domenico's and Paradiso, Sunday through Thursday, for lunch or dinner.
Folks, I believe these are the most delicious salmon dishes that I have ever created and the recipes will appear here next week. I get the impression that many of you haven't been to the wharf in quite a while, maybe several years. Things are not necessarily as you remember. Businesses have improved their appearance and it's not as crowded as you think (remember: Sunday through Thursday). It really is a great place to bring the family, if only to experience the wonders of our glorious waterfront - sea otters, sea lions, boats, etc.  Also, the City of Monterey took over cleaning the Wharf two years ago and they've been doing a fine job. As for locals, we love seeing you down here and I want you to know that I am working with the Wharf Association, other Wharf businesses and the City of Monterey, to provide a better experience for you and at a value. So come on down and rediscover the Wharf.
Q:  John, a lot of Sicilians in Monterey have similar recipes for meatballs. I am interested in learning yours. Do you bake or fry them?   Paul Lucido - Carmel

A:  I think my meatballs are the best in the world. Sorry Pauly boy, this is one of my most closely guarded secrets. You have inspired me though so watch for them featured real soon at one of my restaurants and judge for yourself.

Readers: Folks, let me tell you about one of the best secrets for having a successful dinner party - add a cheese course. Stop by the Cheese Shop in Carmel Plaza and ask Adam, Mike, Neil, Kent or Hanna to select appropriate after-dinner cheeses for the number of guests that you have. Pick at least five and don’t forget some dried fruit, fig jam or white truffle oil as part of the dish. They can also team you up with the right wine or port. I will guarantee your guests will flip out - I swear.

 

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