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June 19, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q:    I heard a new recipe for clam chowder. It calls for 3 cups clam meat and 3 quarts of clam juice. Where can I get that quantity of clam juice? I usually use half a bottle of clam juice in those small bottles in my chowder. It would take a lot of those bottles to make 3 quarts. The secret to this recipe is to add the potatoes to the clam juice (poured over one diced cooked onion in butter) and simmer for hours. The potatoes break down to make it thick. No cream, no milk, just juice. Any suggestions for a type of potato that can stand up to long cooking without becoming total mush? Thanks for your publicity for locals coming to the wharf and for parking to be available for us. That makes a lot of sense.

Kathy Sindelar - Deer Flats, Monterey

A:   Hi Kathy, Let's take these one at a time. First, clam juice in larger quantities is available at Smart & Final in Seaside. Second, mushy potatoes - long cooking will dissolve potatoes. Add cooked potatoes at the end. Also add your clams at the end otherwise they will taste and look like rubber bands. Finally, in regards to free parking, it is now scheduled to go before the Monterey city council - stay tuned!

Q:   Hi John. We've never met, but I've enjoyed dining at your restaurants over the (33) years that I've lived here and read your Herald column regularly. I have a friend from Texas coming to visit the West Coast for the first time next month. He has never seen the Pacific Ocean! He wants to go out to lunch with a small group and taste abalone for the first time. I was thinking a good choice to fulfill this wish would be Domenico's - am I right? Is abalone on the lunch menu there?

Wendy Johnston - Camel Valley

A:   Wendy, at one time fairly inexpensive and plentiful, wild abalone is no longer available for commercial consumption. The only abalone available is farm-raised. They are not as large as wild abalone, although Monterey Abalone Company now has different sizes from 31/2" to 71/2" at $24 per pound. The beauty of farm-raised is that, as they are raised in an enclosure, their muscle is not used much making them more tender, requiring less pounding. The flavor is the same but the texture is much better. Abalone has now moved into the luxury category as with caviar, Kobe beef, foie gras, etc.

We stock live abalone in our tanks at Paradiso, Abalonetti and Domenico's. Call ahead to make sure they are available. If you want to try to do it yourself, call the boys at Monterey Abalone Company on Wharf #2 (646-0350) and they will harvest right out of the ocean and give you recipes. They also ship live anywhere in the U.S.

Q:   Dear John. There's a tall ship of the Ecuadorian Navy coming to call in Monterey on June 21-25, and I'd like to make a typical Ecuadorian dish for friends over the weekend, after visiting the ship. Any suggestions?

Laura Cameron - Monterey

A:   According to my Ecuadorian friend, Juan Carlos Calle, deep-fried guinea pig is considered a real special treat. The meat is succulent, low in fat and when fried crisp, is fantastic! If you don't think that will fly, how about something a bit less exotic. Juan Carlos sent me this recipe for ceviche, which is uniquely Ecuadorian, as they have been preparing it since before the arrival of the Spanish.  (See Ceviche Recipe below)

 

Ceviche Recipe
3 lbs. large shrimp (cleaned)
1 1/2 cups orange juice (no pulp)
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup lime juice
1/2 cup tomato juice
1 tsp. mustard
1 tsp. English sauce
3 medium size sliced red onions
1 small sliced onion
3/4 cup fresh parsley
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 small hot red pepper - sliced

Put shrimp in a pot of cold water with a dash of salt, small onion and half of hot pepper. As soon as it starts boiling, remove from heat and drain. Leave to cool uncovered. Important not to over cook shrimp - they will become too firm.

Bring 2 cups of water to boil. Remove from heat. In hot water add red onions, 1/2cup of lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 3/4 teaspoon of sugar. Let onions sit there for about 3 minutes. Drain. This process helps take the acidity from the onions. In Spanish it is called "encurtir."

In separate bowl, mix orange, lemon, lime and tomato juices, mustard, English sauce, parsley, pepper and red onions.

Chop remainder of hot pepper into very small pieces and add to previous mixture.

Next add the shrimp and the red onions to the mixture of juices. Mix well.

Refrigerate covered until it is very cold. Place shrimp ceviche in individual serving and garnish with diced tomatoes and parsley. Serve with fresh popcorn, lemon and French bread. Enjoy!

Ecuadorian tidbit from Gia Pisto: When Simon Bolivar, known as the "George Washington" of South America, invaded the northern half of the continent in the 18th century, he flew a flag of yellow, blue and red horizontal stripes. It was under this flag that Venezuela, Peru, Ecuador and more, were freed from Spain's rule. Today, Columbia, Ecuador and Venezuela have Bolivar's flag as their country's symbol. 

 

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