pisto.com pisto.com

June 12, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q:   Where can I get soft-shell crabs locally? I read your column in the Herald and figured you would know.

Cliff Knuckles - Carmel

A:  Well Cliff, this is a tough one. I know of no retailer that handles fresh soft-shell crabs. Keep in mind, these guys are highly perishable and, for the restaurants, we receive them live. I remember the first time I tasted them. It was a restaurant called "Petite Pier" 15 or 20 years ago. Wow, what a product! When at their best it's like eating crab flavored custard. For those that don't know, a soft-shell crab is an eastern blue crab that is in between shells. After molting, the new shell takes a few days to harden so that, while still in its soft state, it can be sautéed or deep-fried either as a sandwich (po-boy) or simply with a lemon butter sauce and you eat the whole thing. Believe me, it is one of the wonders of the summer. We are currently serving them at the Whaling Station and Paradiso on weekends. They can be a hard sell on the West Coast where folks are less familiar with them although, most people don't realize, the shell is a great source of calcium.

Readers:  I've got a hot produce tip for you - a new product from Monterey County called "mâche" also known as corn salad or lamb's lettuce, according to Jackie at Del Monte Produce. Epic Roots is the grower, the flavor is gentle and the leaves have a tender, velvety texture. Dress lightly and man, is it good. By the way, the boys at Del Monte Produce have taken over Monte Vista Market.

They told me they plan to add a lot more produce and Joe will still be around too. Please support our Mom and Pop stores - grand reopening is this Friday morning, June 14 - Thank God!

Q:   Buon Giornio, We greatly enjoy your television program, particularly the trips to Italy, which we love to visit also. Last year we visited Sicily for ten days and brought back some very light, dry white wines. We have none left and cannot find anything light and dry (but not acidic) in local shops. Since we do not plan a visit soon to Sicily, I wonder if you can point us to any source for Sicilian white wines. Ciao!

Chris Keehn - via e-mail

A:  Boy do I have a great story about Sicilian wines. About 15 years ago, I was visiting relatives in Furci Siculo, Sicily which is about 10 miles from Messina. My granddad's village has maybe 1500 residents and one hotel called "Foti" (very similar to Fawlty Towers) run by Francisco Foti, with twenty rooms and a small dining area (typical for the area). There are also two bakeries, one butcher, one outdoor café and three fresh fish markets. Francisco heard that I was in town and the owner of two restaurants in California. He called for a meeting and wine tasting. He was very excited, as he wanted to sell me a container full of Sicilian wines. The meeting in the hotel dining room (five tables) was very official with onlookers and relatives on hand. He proceeded to open the wine and pour me half a glass. While I tasted, he kept talking about the virtues of this exceptional wine and what an exceptional deal he would make just for me.

Everyone watched as I expertly swished the glass to awaken the bouquet. Swishing and smelling, swishing and smelling, I could tell this impressed everyone in the room. I could see the smile of my proud relative. Here we have his nephew who is truly a connoisseur. I took a sip and tasted the wine for the first time, making a lot of noise by sucking in air to bring out the true flavors of the grape. Everyone was on the edge of their seat waiting for my approval. The wine was bone-dry, light golden in color with a slight bouquet. It was also acidic which is common to European wines as they are made primarily for consumption with food. After I swallowed, I kept a very unemotional expression on my face and slowly asked, "How much a bottle?"  Francisco looked at me with an "I hope this is going to work out" look on his face and said "$2.00 a bottle."   Extremely reasonable I thought for the wine, in fact, I was so shocked I blurted out "$2.00 a bottle?!"  Francisco, interpreting my comment to mean the price was too high, immediately said he could make it
$1.00 a bottle. This made me think. This wine went from $2.00 to $1.00 so quickly that it reminded me of an old Italian saying: "In Italy, they even make wine out of grapes." I decided not to purchase the 1,000 cases offered, but instead, invited everyone to the plaza for some gelato.

Anyway, Chris, there are several excellent local wine stores where, upon request, they can order just what you are looking for.

 

Q:    Hi John, I am now reading your column via www.pisto.com, in Modello, Sicily - how about that? Now for my question: how about a recipe for the gazpacho that used to be served at the Whaling Station?

Vito Catalano - "Billy's Food" Modello, Sicily
via e-mail

A:    Folks, let me tell you about Billy, a.k.a. "Vito." Bill moved to Sicily about seven years ago and through a lot of hard work, he and his wife Paula now have a great restaurant right on the plaza of a picturesque little village just outside of Palermo. I have visited his restaurant several times where he serves authentic American style food. Due to traveling all over the world, Italians have become quite the sophisticated diners.

billycatalano061202.jpg (11336 bytes)

Those that have visited America are asking for burgers, ribs, chowders, lots of salads and American desserts. It just so happens that Billy worked at The Whaling Station for many years and he was terrific. Okay, now for the Whaling Station Gazpacho Recipe:
Start with a whole can of tomatoes. Add equal amounts of peeled, sliced, deseeded and diced cucumbers, diced red onion and diced celery. Then add dashes of Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and salt and pepper to taste. Finish with a shot of red wine vinegar and a tiny amount of sugar to cut the acidity, then garnish with garlic croutons and cilantro. Served chilled, this should be very good on a hot Sicilian afternoon.

 

vistabeach061202.jpg (8509 bytes)

Billy, let me know how my Paisanos like it! By the way, Bill's mom, dad and brother have the wonderful restaurant "Cibo" in downtown Monterey. P.S. Bill, if you really want to shake them up, serve the soup in a small cup with a shot of vodka - and, hold the croutons.

Viewers:   As I have recently announced, Monterey's Cookin' Pisto Style is now on every night at 8 PM on channel 2, unless there is a baseball game. I was just informed that we have been given additional airings of the show at 9:30 AM on Saturdays and Sundays. So, tune in this week on channel 2 (also channel 20 in Monterey only) to see Master Sommelier Fred Dame match up some great California wines with assorted domestic and imported caviar. You'll see these incredible products up close and some fun ways to serve them.

 

 

 

 

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

Last "Ask the Chef" Article  ♦  Index of "Ask the Chef" Articles