pisto.gif (1318 bytes) pisto.gif (1318 bytes)

January 22, 2002       ...      Ask the Chef                ...            John Pisto

Q:    Dear Chef Pisto, When a recipe calls for a dry white wine, which wine do you suggest? Also, wondering about vermouth. Thanking you in advance for your attention to this request as I sip a martini prescribed by you.   Barb M.

A:   Hi Barb, hope you have your feet up while you’re enjoying that martini. 5 o’clock rolls around and it’s "Tini-time." Now down to business. Two very important questions. First, white wine for cooking - use anything that you would drink. Most very inexpensive wines have no varietal character (flavors) so all you taste is sweet. A medium priced Sauvignon Blanc would do nicely for general purposes due to it’s flavors and acidity. Chardonnay usually has too much oak. Regarding vermouth, I like steaming shellfish with dry vermouth. Vermouth is infused with a lot of wonderful herbs - that’s where it gets its flavor. Buy one that is medium priced to fairly expensive. Try this one: In a medium sized pot, sauté some chopped garlic, parsley and shallots in olive oil. Add clams and / or mussels, a splash of dry vermouth and a knob of sweet butter then cover. Steam until all shellfish are open and serve. You’ll see why it’s a classic!

Q:    Dear Chef, I just read your column on olives. I have cured Mission Olives (green/ripe) in brine changed weekly for 10 weeks, according to a recipe I found on the internet, and they always remain bitter. They are nice and firm and okay otherwise. Any suggestion? Also, I love to make cioppino and have done it successfully for years unless I make a large batch (12 people). I think my deep pot is the problem or should I make it in two batches?

A:   For your bitter olives, it’s important to put slits with the tip of a knife into every olive. This way the brine will penetrate. Also, keep them submerged. I happen to like them a bit on the bitter side. As for your cioppino, what you need is a large 4-inch deep pot that will cover two or more burners on your stove. Cioppino for 12 is a lot of cioppino. I don’t know all of what you’re putting in there (some fish, shrimp, mussels, crab, etc.), but in a deep pot it might all get broken up. I suggest you call Monterey Bay Restaurant Supply in Sand City (899-1422) regarding a suitable cioppino pot. Ask for Angela or Rosie - I have already talked to them for you. Also, maybe a large propane burner would work for you, that way it would also be portable - beach party anyone?!

The last word on olives (I swear) comes regarding yet another cautioning letter about home canning. While caution is always recommended, one of my friends wondered when was the last time anyone heard of someone getting sick from olives? Let’s face it folks, living is hazardous to your health.

Q:    Dear Chef, I followed your recommendation on Stammtisch, the German restaurant in Seaside and it was great. I had no idea that there were any German restaurants in our area. Do you know of any others?

Mary "Nana" L. - Monterey

A:  It just so happens that I was in San Juan Bautista this past Sunday and visited what is a recent discovery for me. A small place called "Joan and Peter’s" (831-623-4521). In addition to some terrific German food (I had the pork cutlets and cabbage) we were entertained by three accordion players - what atmosphere! I suggest you bring your own instrument and jam with them.

 

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

Last "Ask the Chef" Article  ♦  Index of "Ask the Chef" Articles