February 19, 2002 Ask the Chef Article

February 19, 2002 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Well folks, I just returned from a week in New Orleans. My wife and I were guests of Wendy and George Rodrigue, who was Grand Marshall of the Argus Mardi Gras parade. We all know Wendy and George from his Blue Dog Gallery in Carmel. George's Blue Dog is world famous and boy do they love him in New Orleans.

Wendy was responsible for taking care of guests from around the country selected to ride on the Blue Dog float. I'm talking about 7 days of planned activities, morning, noon and night. What a monumental task it was - way to go Wendy! She was as precise as a surgeon. A group of 8 was from Monterey and the Blue Dog float held about 20 people. We were on the dog for 5 hours throwing beads and doubloons and passed by one million people. Man - what an experience!

New Orleans is one of my favorite cities. You know why? The Food! The last time I was there I was with Morris Hyman and family. Also from New Orleans, Morris is founder of Fremont Bank with a branch in Carmel Valley. We rode in the Bacchus parade - but that's another story.

Now back to the food. The first night we went to K-Paul’s. Gumbo, blackened fish, bread pudding - all fabulous. Paul was there and looking quite slim.

The second day we explored the French Quarter - bignets and coffee at Café du Monde, then to the Central Grocery for muffalata sandwiches. Later at Felix's restaurant and oyster bar: gumbo, oysters, jambalaya, several varieties of po-boys and more oysters washed down with local beer, bloody marys and brandy milk punch (recipe to follow). That night we attended a black-tie ball for the Argus group - gumbo, ham, pasta, etc, dancing and a preview of the floats - then a 2 am trip back to the French Quarter for more oysters.

Day 3 - lunch at Galatoire's on Bourbon Street - the place to be on Friday before Mardi Gras. Some people pay others $400-$600 to wait in line for them a day in advance (they take no reservations). Brandy milk punch, soufflé potatoes, unbelievable soft-shell crab, oysters and mounds of crabmeat on everything - fantastic! George was mobbed and ended up autographing white napkins with images of Blue Dog.

He easily signed over 100 - it was great. That night another black-tie ball at the Super Dome with 15,000 invitees. Food, drinks and dancing. The Bacchus float came in for review with the king and queen on board. Beads and doubloons were flying all over the place. We left at ?? Couldn’t make the French Quarter for oysters.

Day 4 we attended a cocktail party at the private home of Mr. and Mrs. Shane, one of the principles of the parade. Drinks, food and live band. That night our group had dinner planned at Mulato's Cajun Restaurant to eat and watch the Bacchus parade. Fried catfish, crab balls, gator, gumbo, fried crayfish, jambalaya and oysters fried on the half-shell. They had a real Cajun band, which would make anyone dance - however, my feet would not move.

Day 5 was a free day. We roamed the quarter and walked and walked, ate oysters and more oysters. By nighttime we needed meat! A lot of restaurants close for Mardi Gras because it gets too crazy. We found a Ruth's Chris Steakhouse and, although it's no Whaling Station, it did satisfy the need.

Day 6, The Big Day! Breakfast of eggs, grits, bacon and coffee at 7am. Having arranged all our throws (beads, doubloons, etc.) we loaded on the float and waited for the starting gun. Our float threw probably 2 or 3 tons of stuff. George threw three doubloons worth $1,000 each. This had been advertised a week ahead so we were mobbed the whole time. After about 3 hours, I sure could have used some oysters. After the parade it was gumbo, jambalaya, rice, beans and a live band, then a bus back to the hotel. We had hit the wall - wiped out! Some of our group actually kept going - like Myles Williams - Myles, you are the man! ay 7 we attended a special party at a camp on the Mississippi. George had arranged for some of his friends to serve us some home cooking. It was about an hour outside of town at a friend's 3,000 acre plantation and boy were they ready for us. Fresh fried catfish and gator, crayfish tails with a little catsup and sweet relish in lettuce cups - then real gumbo (chicken and sausage). Steamed crayfish - at least 4 pounds to a tray. That might sound like a lot but it really isn’t.

Eating crayfish around a table of 20 people is quite an experience. It is very social, everyone sucking heads and eating tails - what a blast! The lunch was finished off with bread pudding, whipped cream and tons of southern hospitality. What a great introduction to some fantastic people. They may talk a little funny, but man do they know how to make a person feel welcome.

After lunch I met the head cook, Jimmy Robert, and we talked food. I asked him about raccoon and his eyes lit up. He gave me a couple of recipes. They only serve them on special occasions because they are hard to come by nowadays. I told Jimmy that we live in raccoon heaven and we could sure use a couple of the boys out west for a few weeks. It would solve the problem folks, and they wouldn’t go to waste. Remember, I'm talking food here, pure and simple, no politics. I asked Jimmy to share a recipe or two and he offered one for gator. I told him we were a little short on gator but long on raccoon, but since I might have some problems there, I settled for his catfish recipe.

Fried Catfish Recipe - Jimmy Robert: Cut catfish filets into small chunks. Season with granulated garlic, salt, pepper and hot sauce - then add a little Creole mustard (not too much). Roll in a mixture of half corn meal-half flour seasoned with salt, pepper and Cajun seasoning. Fry in small batches in about 360-degree vegetable oil. Serve hot with catsup and beer. Sit by the Mississippi and watch the ships go by.

Brandy (or Bourbon) Milk Punch Recipe: Fill glass with ice cubes. Pour in a shot of either brandy or bourbon, add a cube of sugar, fill with milk and dust with nutmeg - fantastic. My overall impression of New Orleans - Food still great, people very hospitable and George and Wendy were miracle workers for what they pulled off. A once in a lifetime experience!

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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