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August 21, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Great idea anyone?  Try the Napa Valley Wine Train www.winetrain.com on either the afternoon or evening run. Vincent and Mildred DeDomenico have sure done a magnificent job - Cheryl and I didn't want to get off!  For those that don't know, this is a vintage train that takes you through the heart of Napa Valley in beautifully appointed railway cars. You are served lunch, brunch or dinner, or you can just go for the ride. They have a great wine bar, terrific service and it is truly magical, voted one of the top twenty railroads in the world. Going through the scenic valley and seeing names like Grgich, Krug and Beaulieu Vineyards, I mean we're talking legends here folks. Reservations (800)-427-4124.

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Napa Wine Train

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Dining Car

Q: Dear Chef Pisto,  I always enjoy your column and recipes. Some time ago, you were talking about the origin of pizza. In 1963, my husband and I and family joined my parents in Florence, Italy.  Every day at lunchtime, my mother would ask for "pizza." There was no pizza in Florence, it seemed. I didn't even know what pizza was, at the time, but I was willing to try it since my mother seemed to like it so much. One day in an upscale restaurant, the exasperated waiter said, "Well, signora, if you want pizza, you had better go to Napoli."

I haven't been back to Florence since 1969 and would be interested to know if they now have pizza.   Janice Anderson - via email

A: Well Janice, your mom would be very happy to know that pizza is now known all over the world. In fact it is the world's fastest growing fast food. Italian pizza ovens can now be bought and installed in your own kitchen. Pizza has that wonderful appeal of the perfect food - a pizza, a salad and a glass of wine or cold beer - now that's what I'm talking about, Jan.

Readers: Update on my Wave Street office vegetable garden. Mac & the boys are starting to eyeball my tomatoes. They have been overheard saying that they are waiting for everything to mature. Until recently, I was only worried about the deer that ate my flowers.

 

Q:   Dear John,  I hate oysters in the U.S. That big sac is so disgusting. In France, they raise oysters without that sac and they taste so fresh - just like one imagines the sea to taste. Love your programs. Monterey and John Pisto go together.

Diantha Wagner -Monterey

A:   There is an enormous variety of oyster types in the U.S. Whether from Washington state, Northern California or the east coast, they come very large to very small. If you want small, you've got to try the Kumamoto. They are only 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter with a deep shell. I've been serving them at The Whaling Station for five years now and people love them. Also on the small side are Belon (French) or "flat" oysters and the delicious Malpeque. My dear Diantha, you've got to go out and search for the U.S.-raised oyster that you'll like - it is out there!

One more from Alaska:  Their motto is: respect the sea, and the sea will respect you; respect the land, and the land will respect you; respect people, and people will respect you. In 1982, Admiralty Island was designated as a national monument. This means no timber harvesting, no commercial fishing and no development, except within the Angoon city limits. The natives take only what they need and seem to have a perfect balance of life. Mayor and fishing guide, Floyd told me seal oil and herring eggs are considered the finest foods, however this time of year they are harvesting red or sockeye salmon. The whole village works together with a team of 5 or 6 skiffs going out and bringing back about 300 fish. The women filet the fish and cut it into strips for smoking. The men gather wood and tend the fire. The fish is done in 2 to 3 days, depending on the style. Everyone is in good spirits and there is a kind of party atmosphere.  Meanwhile, back at the lodge, Pierre Coutou has been cooking his little French heart out. So far, he has made fresh crab cakes, fried crab with spicy garlic sauce,
cedar-planked salmon, beer-battered halibut, grilled halibut, great omelets, fresh blueberry pancakes, chocolate mousse, Baba rums, hot soft chocolate cakes, salads, breads and salmon patés. All of this done with food barged in once a week from Juneau. Bravo Pierre!  By the third day I was cruising the kitchen, looking, hinting and almost begging for Pierre to let me do some cooking. I asked him if he has ever made gravlox from the native salmon. He said he hadn't, so I experimented with some silver salmon. It was just okay - I guess you should only use king salmon. Next I showed him my crab risotto with fresh-picked Dungeness crab. "Hey, Pierre, how about a nice pasta using fresh diced halibut." Folks, finally I was on familiar ground and all was right in the world (kitchen). That night for dinner, we had additional guests, Patti and Tom with the U.S. Forest service out of Kechikan. There we were, in the middle of one million square miles of pristine wilderness - eating like kings!

 

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