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April 9, 2002          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Q:    Greetings John. In the movie A Beautiful Mind the actors are eating pizza in Connecticut in 1947. I don't recall eating pizza in the USA until the mid 50's. What is the history of pizza? I have always understood that the Italian version is more of a pie.  Myrna Hompton - Carmel

A:   Considered a peasant's meal in Italy for centuries, modern pizza is attributed to baker Raffaele Esposito of Napoli (Naples) in the region of Campania. In 1889, Esposito baked the classic Pizza all Marinara, with mozzarella and basil, especially for the visit of Italian King Umberto I and Queen Margherita. This pizza was considered very patriotic resembling the Italian flag with its colors of green (basil), white (mozzarella) and red (tomatoes). The Queen liked it so much that it was named Pizza Margherita in her honor.  This pizza has set the standard by which today's pizza evolved and spread to Northern Italy and beyond, establishing Naples as the pizza capitol of the world. 
Pizza migrated to America with the Italians in the latter half of the 19th century. By the turn of the century, Italian immigrants had begun to open their own bakeries and were selling groceries as well as pizza.

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Gennaro Lombardi opened the first true U.S. pizzeria in 1905 in New York City.  It wasn't until after World War II when returning GI' s created a nationwide demand for pizza they had eaten and loved in Italy, that pizza went public.

In Monterey, according to my sister Jo, Pavia Pizza opened at Webster and Bonafacio in the 1940's and later moved to Marina. In the early 50's, there was Pink Pizzeria (the Flores family) and Caruso's corner (the Ciolino family). Caruso's corner is now on Fremont and they still make the same pizza, which is delicious. Those were our local pioneers. Now there are others like Gianni's - all very good. So, Myrna, I suppose it is possible that "a beautiful pie" might have been available on the East Coast in 1947.

 

 

Q:   John, great (Boston Butt) recipe in the April 3rd column. I saw you cooking pork on a rotisserie on your show. How about a recipe for cooking it in the oven? And what cut of meat is used to make shredded pork? P.S. I plan to check out Peninsula Fish Market for fresh fish soon. --
Anonymous E-mail

A:    Folks, by far the best cut for shredded pork is the pork shoulder. It should weigh from 4 to 6 pounds (bone-in). By comparison, a ham would weigh more like 20 pounds. Use a fresh pork hind leg seasoned well with a dry rub. Triple-wrap it in tinfoil and refrigerate for up for 2 days then put in a slow oven (275 degrees for 10 hours). This requires slow cooking. The meat will shred easily - just add your favorite barbecue sauce and enjoy.

Q:   Dear John.  Thank you very much for the cookbook. I love mushrooms and look forward to trying out the recipes I now have at hand. I also wanted to thank you for going to bat for free parking for locals. I've considered myself a resident of "Monterey" for 20 years, but because I live in Marina, I don't qualify for any of the current locals' discounts.

Based on your notes, it is quite apparent that may locals do not frequent the wharf because of the parking situation. Thanks again!
Cindy - Marina

A:   Cindy, this campaign started a month ago with my question and letters are still pouring in. Jim Gilbert, president of the Fisherman's Wharf Association, told me a meeting is taking place this very morning to establish the Wharf board of directors' strategy regarding upcoming meetings with the city parking directors. Beginning today, I will provide a weekly update on the progress of getting something done with the parking situation. Let's see how long this takes to settle. I'll say it again - two hours free for peninsula locals!

Readers:  Not much response from you on meatballs, so for the time being, plans for a meatball festival are on hold.  I did however receive a Mock Meatballs Recipe from Anne Greene in Carmel. Someone please give it a try and let me know how it turns out.  For now, I'll stick with the meat version.

Makes 6 servings

5 eggs
1 cup shredded sharp cheddar     cheese
½ cup cream-style cottage          cheese
½ cup finely chopped onion
1 tsp. dried basil, crushed
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. ground sage
2 cups herb-seasoned stuffing mix, crushed
1 cup finely chopped walnuts
8 oz. can tomato sauce
1 cup water

In a mixing bowl, beat together eggs, cheddar and cottage cheeses, onion, basil, salt and sage. Stir in stuffing mix and nuts - mix well. Shape into 24 balls. Place in a 2-inch baking dish. Combine tomato sauce with water and pour half over meatballs. Bake uncovered in 350-degree oven for 35-40 minutes. Heat the remaining sauce and pass with the "meatballs."

Readers:  A certain well-respected Monterey attorney, let's call him "Andy," told me recently that he is a fan and during the late-night showing of Monterey's Cookin' Pisto Style, is when he starts "putting the moves" on his wife "Carol". Probably has something to do with that show I did on oysters. Keep it up Andy!

 

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