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December 31, 2001       ...      Ask the Chef                ...            John Pisto

First of all - Happy New Year everyone and may your headaches be small!

Q:    A friend gave us some eggplant from their garden. What do we do with it? Love your column and appreciate your advice.   Joanne M. - Santa Rosa

A:    Ah, eggplant, a.k.a. solanum melongena, berenjena, brinjal, aubergine and mulingani (Sicilian dialect). A member of the nightshade family, including chilies, bell peppers, tomatoes and potatoes, eggplant is commonly thought of as a vegetable, but is actually a fruit and has been introduced all over the world, everyone putting their two cents in, so to speak. They can be long or short, white, purple or green, big or small, round, oval or elongated. The name obviously comes from the most common shape. The colonists grew them as ornaments rather than for consumption, theirs looked like swan eggs. It probably took an Italian to show them how to cook them - those guys could eat all those grains and boiled meat, weeds and porridges - but give me a plate of pasta with tomato and eggplant and folks - now we’re talking! Personally, I love grilled eggplant. Try this Grilled Eggplant Recipe from my cookbook:

Serves 4-6: 1 large eggplant, olive oil, ¼ bunch fresh mint, 2 large garlic cloves, 2 T. Balsamic vinegar, salt & pepper to taste. You may choose to barbecue your eggplant or use a stovetop grill. Grill must be pre-heated until smoking. Cut eggplant into 1/2-inch slices. Brush slices with olive oil on both sides. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill eggplant for 5-8 minutes on each side. Place on a large serving platter, slightly overlapping each slice with another. Coarsely chop mint. Finely chop garlic cloves. Sprinkle with balsamic vinegar, mint and garlic. Drizzle with olive oil. Let sit for 5 minutes to absorb flavors, then serve.

Q:    Please share your recipes for fresh olives that you mentioned in your column.   Pamela H. - Carmel

Olives, Part One of Three:

From "The King" John Mercurio (a.k.a. "Jean" - my brother-in-law): John learned by trial and error over the years. His favorite are the Mission Olives found around here although he has been known to pick anywhere he finds them. The best time for green olives is September through November depending on location in the state.  Picking is very important. The secret is they should be a very light green. 

Getting him to give me his recipes was like pulling teeth. To make five gallons. Split the olives into two five-gallon buckets. Submerge olives weighted-down in fresh water with one whole thinly sliced lemon and one large handful of salt in each bucket. Change water every other day remembering to re-salt. After seven days, it’s time to transfer to one-quart mason jars. The jars must be very clean with tight fitting lids. Next make a pickling of bottled water and distilled vinegar - 8 parts water to one part vinegar. Make a flavoring mixture of crushed bay leaf, chopped garlic, fennel seed and crushed hot red pepper. As you put the olives in the jars, put some of the flavoring mixture in the bottom of each jar then in the middle and finally on top. Ladle in the pickling liquid leaving just enough space for 2 ½ teaspoons of salt in each jar. Note: the lemon will keep the color of the olives nice and green. To cure, store the jars in a cool, dark place for 3-4 months (make sure to date jars so you don’t guess) and taste after 3 months. I like them to have a slightly bitter taste. The examples John brought to my office were magnificent - they were super-colossal. Use only a wooden or plastic spoon to extract them from the jar - never your fingers or you risk contaminating them. To serve, rinse briefly in a colander, put in a dish and enjoy!  

 

Jean’s Black Olives:   

Pick only when purple or black. Place cleaned olives in a bucket of water and salt for 2-3 days. The secret method: Get a five-gallon bucket and drill small holes in the bottom. Place drained olives in this bucket and place a round piece of plywood (3/4" is best) with a heavy weight (old plastic gallon jugs full of gravel) on them. Place bucket in a planter dish on top of two pieces of wood or brick to elevate. The olives should now drip freely.

Now - every day take off the lid, shake the olives around, then replace lid and weight. After 3 days, remove olives and place in a clean bucket (no holes) and rinse well in slightly salted water and leave for 24 hours - then repeat. Then put them back in the holed bucket with weight for 2 days. Take out again and rinse as before. Repeat this a total of 5 times. Finally, rinse olives in a colander with fresh, hot water and drain well. Place in shallow trays to dry in the sun or place in an oven preheated to 350 degrees.
Turn off oven and let cool completely. Repeat oven treatment 2 or 3 times until moisture is out. To serve, rub olives in olive oil, black pepper and crushed red pepper. To reserve, place in small zip-lock bags - enough for 2 day’s eating (60-70 olives) and place in freezer allowing them to return to room temperature when you want them.

These are fabulous and may last forever - you have it from "The King."

 

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in Monterey, California, click here.

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